Busted S1 Radiator

[Dominic]

Once you get the front clam off, it's pretty straight forward. Consider changing the fan at the same time as the bearings tend to go, and the horn add that's a clam off job to do..! Also the front toe post if it's not been done as they rot pretty badly, stick a stainless one in. Silicon hoses are the other thing I did when I races my rad..

You might want to get some new fan mount brackets too as they

Once it's back together, search on here for a bleed guide.

Wot he said.

Tow post well worth looking at replacing.

[Dominic]

With regards to the coolant, take care. If your car has OATS coolant make sure to use the same stuff , the same colour and same type. I had pink OATS coolant in mine so used pink stuff to top up the system after my radiator change. Turned out that it was not the right stuff and it reacted and went lumpy. If I had not noticed the lumps I would have soon had a blocked radiator, which brings new problems.

[scott.a]

With regards to the coolant, take care. If your car has OATS coolant make sure to use the same stuff , the same colour and same type. I had pink OATS coolant in mine so used pink stuff to top up the system after my radiator change. Turned out that it was not the right stuff and it reacted and went lumpy. If I had not noticed the lumps I would have soon had a blocked radiator, which brings new problems.

No idea what coolant is in it - any way i can tell?

[Victor Meldrew]

With regards to the coolant, take care. If your car has OATS coolant make sure to use the same stuff , the same colour and same type. I had pink OATS coolant in mine so used pink stuff to top up the system after my radiator change. Turned out that it was not the right stuff and it reacted and went lumpy. If I had not noticed the lumps I would have soon had a blocked radiator, which brings new problems.

No idea what coolant is in it - any way i can tell?

If you don't know then only safe option is to drain and flush the lot out and start fresh. I bought a 10 liter water canister thing from a camping shop to mix up a batch. Someone on here will know the total volume of the system off the top of their head...

When we changed my radiator many years ago, I filled the system with plain water and ran the car for about an hour at idle. We then dumped the horrifyingly manky looking water completely and filled the system with the new stuff. Job done. Was a worthwhile step to flush out the residue of the old stuff.

Should have said, obviously do this with the old radiator in place not the new one...

Also a good time to remove and clean out the header tank... just don't tell the wife what you want the kitchen scrubber brush for....

[scott.a]

Any thoughts regarding the radiator - the all aluminium one from Eliseparts is decent value compared to the pro-alloy one at £100 more.

[campbell]

Hard to say for sure but any all-alloy is considered a step up from standard.

I bought one. Albeit not from Eliseparts. 6 yrs ago. Replacing soon due to leak, rather than the popular end tank failures the placcy-tanked ones are famous for.

I'll buy similar again.

[scott.a]

Hard to say for sure but any all-alloy is considered a step up from standard.

I bought one. Albeit not from Eliseparts. 6 yrs ago. Replacing soon due to leak, rather than the popular end tank failures the placcy-tanked ones are famous for.

I'll buy similar again.

The choice seems to be between these two. I dont see much differnce other than the price. Deffo wont be getting a plastic ended one.

http://www.proalloy.co.uk/cgi-bin/sitew ... d=proalloy

https://www.eliseparts.com/products/sho ... -radiator/

Thoughts?

[Victor Meldrew]

Any thoughts regarding the radiator - the all aluminium one from Eliseparts is decent value compared to the pro-alloy one at £100 more.

I am going with Craig's recommendation and going for a pro alloy.

I think the Pro Alloy has a larger capacity?


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[campbell]

Just checked my notes. Craig recommended one at £300 plus vat. Plus an uprated fan. That's what I'll be getting, therefore

I think it's prob a Proalloy.

I used to be very attentive to such things but time-poor this year and "just want it done right". So trusting to the experts...

[scott.a]

Just checked my notes. Craig recommended one at £300 plus vat. Plus an uprated fan. That's what I'll be getting, therefore

I think it's prob a Proalloy.

I used to be very attentive to such things but time-poor this year and "just want it done right". So trusting to the experts...

Ordered a Pro-Alloy one from Craig - it arrives tomorrow.

[tut]

Around £500 total Campbell?

Coincidentally just what P&L cover you for.

tut

[campbell]

Around £500 total Campbell?

Coincidentally just what P&L cover you for.

tut

But I'd need to have broken down. And get recovered. Car running well. <scratches head>

[tut]

You break down when you discover the leak as your car is not serviceable and you were on your way to CCM for a service when it happened.

Legitimate claim and you are provided with a Courtesy car whilst your car is recovered to Craig. It happened twice this year with N3, plus once with the Audi TT and once with the Honda CR-V, though they both went to a local garage. All were genuine claims and were not queried.

tut

[campbell]

I think we'll just leave it for now Tut. Thanks!

[scott.a]

Bit of an update. Bought a new Pro-Alloy radiator and fitted it today. Clam came off reasonably easy then i removed the old Rad and flushed the system with clean water fitted the pro-alloy rad and refilled it with new ready mix OAT coolant. ran the system up to temp and it all seems to be running nicely. Radiator gets warm and the temperature was sitting nicely in the mid to high 80's. Only slight concern is the top bleed nipple is stuck solid. It has however taken 10 full litres of coolant and as said is running fine. Ran out of daylight so decided not to re-fit the clam tonight - Job for daylight!