Rad Issue?

[StiflerMR2]

Hey all,

So, I did the trackday yesterday, car ran faultlessly all day (wish I could say the same about the driver )

I wheeled the car out of the garage this morning and gave it a wash then took it for a drive. During the drive I noticed what I thought was water being blown onto the windscreen, I gave the windscreen a wipe with the wiper and noticed that the wiper smeared it across the screen. I deducted that this indeed was not water. I was only a few miles from home so drove back taking note of the temp, it sat at a constant 87 degrees, just like it normally does.

Once in the garage I notice that it was indeed a blue/green liquid sprayed on the front service panel and it looks to have originated from the rad. All the seals and clips look done up tight but the absorbant material behind the rad was soaking wet with the fluid. I'm guessing it was saturated and the wind coming through blew it onto the screen.

finally, there was no puddle on the garage floor and the car was still running well when I was driving home.

So, two questions:

1. I think it's still the original rad and the car is on 43K miles. - Is it new rad time? I'm guessing this is the one to go for:

http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show ... -radiator/

2. I'd love to use Murrays again but Russell Patterson is much closer. Has anyone used them for elise work?

Been an expensive year so far, £1300 service at Murrays in January and now looks like a new rad too

Thanks for any and all help

-Mark.

[Mikie711]

If it is the original plastic end cap rad then likely it has gone. They tend to fail where the end caps join the main rad.
If it were me I would get one of these.
The Elise parts one is made by Pro Alloy and is their race rad here.

[StiflerMR2]

Thanks Mike and thanks for the links. I noticed there was cheaper rad on elise parts:

http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show ... -radiator/

Any thoughts?

Money is bit of an issue as baby is due in a couple of months, it was a big enough battle hanging on to the Elise, telling her it needs a £300 rad might trigger another "discussion"

-Mark.

[Mikie711]

That one will be a direct replacement for original the race one is thicker, still twin core but they are further apart giving larger cooling area and the one I posted is a triple pass and has 3 cores. Any of them is an improvement on the original. The direct replacement will do and control temps the same as the original the others will keep things in check better when on track or giving the car stick for long periods.
Up to you but it's a fair job changing a rad, clam off etc, might want to consider that when choosing.

[StiflerMR2]

Thanks for the advice Mike, much appreciated.

Also, the car looked ace yesterday, I like the colour too

[Mikie711]

Goes pretty well too
Cheers
Mike

[Lazydonkey]

Pro alloy are on back order just now so unless someone has stock then you're going to struggle. I was told they had at least 80 orders to fulfil to catch up.

Personally i've just put in the EP high pressure one you quoted above.....only completed 70 miles so far but they passed without incident

[Mikem7709]

Mine started the same way in Strassbourg, i managed to limp to a side road where it promptly dropped its guts and had to be relayd back to MMC. If your on a budget, this might be a better solution as the EP extra capacity one is a fair bit more :

http://www.elise-shop.com/aluminium-hig ... p-345.html

I went for this over a tripple pass as 95% of my trackdays are here in UK where ambient temps aren't a problem and when I drive Through Europe in summer, I usually get stuck in city traffic somewhere where the tripple pass wouldn't be a benefit.

I can see the benefit of a tripple pass if your racing / doing a lot of track work in hot countries or not sitting in traffic though.

Make sure the fans 100% while the clam is off and consider sorting the tow post too, I also replaced the rad hoses with silicone ones while it was off. Stainless clam fixing bolts are about £7 for the kit so not much point in reusing the old ones.

[StiflerMR2]

Thanks guys, will get one ordered today, not sure if I should keep costs down and tackle it myself....I'm not known for my spannering abilities!

[Dipper]

changing the rad is not a big job in the grand scheme of things(as long as you resist doing some other jobs while the clams off!). nor is it particularly technical. i did mine a couple months back using the gide on seloc techwiki. for a first attempt id say a day would do it.

this is assuming theres no major issues with bolts and fittings!

[Kayfur]

If you really want to keep costs down I've got a standard rad in good condition removed from my ( 2010 model ) Exige when I upgraded. Was keeping it as a spare but could sell at a sensible price.

[Lazydonkey]

this is assuming theres no major issues with bolts and fittings!

According to the nice people at MMC my clam needed a lot of drilling and swearing to get off

The Elise Parts / Elise Shop high pressure ones seem to be the same and are both £239 inc VAT. Pro-alloy is another £100 or so on top of that.

[StiflerMR2]

Thanks for the offer Kayfur but I've just ordered one.

I guess it could have ended up being a false economy in the long run?

[KingK_series]

Thanks for the offer Kayfur but I've just ordered one.

I guess it could have ended up being a false economy in the long run?

The most important thing if you are doing it yourself is to make sure you bleed the coolant properly.


getting air out of the rad is a ????@@@%%%&&& because the bleed nipple is lower than the rad ends

vac fill is the best answer -

doing it with the clam off and tilting car wioth jacks is the only other solution other than having bleeds in both end caps.

spend time doing this, you won't regret it.

and post questions come the time if need be....