Your thoughts please
- Victor Meldrew
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keep the money in the bank for the next time it blows up
http://www.rathmhor.com | Coaching, training, consultancy
tut wrote:Ed
Without doing anymore work to the head/valves or changing cams, T/B's are the only way that you will get a worthwhile increase in HP, matched to a suitable exhaust manifold to keep the mid range torque.
tut
Putting the alloy plenum pushes up peak BHP at the expense of mid-range torque... so you'll need a 4:1 to 'equalise' that particular mod. Cheif Jedi normally says not to bother with alloy plenum.
Best make sure your head aint cheese, so you may need a whole new port/polish on a new head, or at least a skim (Stu?) on the existing one?
Why did that thing idle so roughly if it had an emerald?
Thought about a C/R box?
Throttle bods will give approx 15 bhp quite expensive bhp/£££ but well worth fitting for the midrange and nice low speed running ( new lotus airbox can be had quite cheap from manufactures compaired with bernards )tut wrote:Ed
Without doing anymore work to the head/valves or changing cams, T/B's are the only way that you will get a worthwhile increase in HP, matched to a suitable exhaust manifold to keep the mid range torque.
tut
Head skim will raise comp and that will increase torque more than a 421 the latter six stud vvc manifold is actully quite good
Vhpd and forged pistons are aprox 12-5-1 std is 10-3-1 ref wossner pistons
your spec head with the larger valves and decent cams t bods ect is looking like 185-190bhp dependant on the cams imo ( due to the larger valves ), pushing the std pistons
( i have similar spec with kent cams but std valves making approx 175-180 heavy skimmed head giving fantastic torque , your valves must be worth 10 bhp over std ? )
however how its mapped will make the biggest differance to reliabliblty keep the revs down at 7000 and map for road not outright power ie back off the advance slightly( -3-5 bhp ) I also mapped on 95 ron due to shortage of anything else up here again a slight powerloss but a nice safty cussion when using 98 ron and thrashing the engine
use a wideband lc1 lambda and run a target a/f i dont know how good the emerald is at doing target but the dta works fantastic
defo fit the prt mod
then work on the gearing to get the most from what you have
IMO
- Victor Meldrew
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- alicrozier
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 12:58 pm
- Location: Aberdeen
Tempted to go for full uber-K spec with an eye on hillclimb/sprints.
i.e. lightening where cheap and easy, 200+ bhp, lots of torque, UCR box, LSD, etc.
Kinda goes against the shed ethos though (motto: cheap and nasty).
Should probably just keep spec as is (except fix the broken bits).
TB will eat into the boot space vital for touring (reqd for Scotty's dirty grunds, helmet etc.).
...and it's too fast for Ed as it is...
i.e. lightening where cheap and easy, 200+ bhp, lots of torque, UCR box, LSD, etc.
Kinda goes against the shed ethos though (motto: cheap and nasty).
Should probably just keep spec as is (except fix the broken bits).
TB will eat into the boot space vital for touring (reqd for Scotty's dirty grunds, helmet etc.).
...and it's too fast for Ed as it is...
All characters appearing in this post are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.
Any references to laptimes, speed or driving on the public highway are purely for dramatic effect.
Any references to laptimes, speed or driving on the public highway are purely for dramatic effect.
The exhaust manifold is probably your restriction at this point - somewhere around 165 is the limit for the S2 manifold/downpipe.
The piper flexi manifold is a good alternate and allows you to retain the nice heatshield you now have. But you'll want to target <190BHP.
You really need to get the S2 alternator heatshield, BTW, as this is going to make your alternator wiring last a lot longer.
Clearly you need DTHTBs and seeing as how you have an alloy boot, there is no excuse for not fitting them. Will make the car run like a dream even on much wilder cams than you are currently using.
I have a set of these lying around here - you would want to port-match to the inlets and we would need to source a synchrometer (there are some cheap ones on ebay) to balance the airflow and to set up the idle speed airflow.
*BUT* your bottom end isn't going to last long at this sort of BHP and you should really be thinking about forged pistons, rods, light weight flywheel and balance the lot. Then you can have a rev limit near 8,000 RPM if you like.
*BUT* if you're going to all that effort you might as well spend the money on the 1.9 components (costs more or less the same as 1.
and get an increase in volume as well. Then you'll end up with 200BHP ...
Short answer - leave it as it is and put it back together
Cheers,
Robin
The piper flexi manifold is a good alternate and allows you to retain the nice heatshield you now have. But you'll want to target <190BHP.
You really need to get the S2 alternator heatshield, BTW, as this is going to make your alternator wiring last a lot longer.
Clearly you need DTHTBs and seeing as how you have an alloy boot, there is no excuse for not fitting them. Will make the car run like a dream even on much wilder cams than you are currently using.
I have a set of these lying around here - you would want to port-match to the inlets and we would need to source a synchrometer (there are some cheap ones on ebay) to balance the airflow and to set up the idle speed airflow.
*BUT* your bottom end isn't going to last long at this sort of BHP and you should really be thinking about forged pistons, rods, light weight flywheel and balance the lot. Then you can have a rev limit near 8,000 RPM if you like.
*BUT* if you're going to all that effort you might as well spend the money on the 1.9 components (costs more or less the same as 1.
Short answer - leave it as it is and put it back together
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
- alicrozier
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 12:58 pm
- Location: Aberdeen
Agreed, fix it for minimum outlay and save up for next time I break it!ed wrote:Yeah think thats for the best.
If we keep the same spec maybe next time when ali gives it back it me it wont be knackered..... again!![]()
(bottom end is 'fairly' new (35K miles), I think after Mr Ironside discovered it wouldn't run without oil...)
btw Mr Ed, you hold the current record for shortest time between official handover and breakdown (in an unlikely to be beaten 1 minute/300 yards).
Mind you it was broken when I gave it to you but at least it still moved under it's own steam (poor hgf pun).
All characters appearing in this post are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.
Any references to laptimes, speed or driving on the public highway are purely for dramatic effect.
Any references to laptimes, speed or driving on the public highway are purely for dramatic effect.