Post
by robin » Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:22 pm
I still think the best way to bleed brakes is the old way, but you can do it with an easibleed by yourself. If you have a willing volunteer then you can pump most of the fluid out of the front caliper first, then bleed out each corner in turn. There is no right/wrong order to do it in.
Simply put, you top off the reservoir with clean fluid.
Loosen the bleed nipple (11mm spanner or six sided socket to loosen it), then slip a rubber pipe over the nipple - should be a tight fit - clear pipe is best. Other end of pipe in either a milk bottle or some other container. Open the bleed nipple about 1/4 of a turn. Shout "down". Your volunteer should now depress brake pedal to the floor. If you have a servo, you might want the engine ticking over as it makes it easier to move the pedal. Ideally to start with they respond "down" to let you know they've done it. You will see a squirt of fluid coming through the pipe. To start with it will be murky, but when the clear fluid comes through it will be clean. Now you tighten the bleed nipple (only needs to turn until it stops - you don't need it tight) and shout "up". They release pedal and hopefully reply "up".
Repeat that until all the fluid coming out of the first corner is clear. Every 10-20 pumps top off the reservoir with clean fluid. When you're done with the first corner, tighten the bleed nipple with a 11mm spanner or a small 1/4" ratchet - do not go overboard. Wipe clean and before you stick the dust cover back on the nipple get the volunteer to press the pedal hard - look for weeping around the nipple - if there is any, you need to tighten a bit more.
Now repeat that at each corner, never forgetting to keep topping off the reservoir before it get's half full.
You can do the fronts through the spokes of the wheels, but the backs need the wheels off on a K-series variant anyway, and I would guess likewise for 111R. TBH it's as easy to remove wheels front and back, so jack and bleed one side, then the other.
With an easibleed, the process is different. Deflate a tyre to about 15psi then hook up the remote reservoir (dry to start with) to the fluid reservoir. Then attach the airline to the tyre. Make sure it's all airtight and no air is escaping anywhere. Assuming all is OK, remove the airline, open the remote reservoir, fill with clean fluid, reattach to the tyre.
Now you do much the same at each wheel as before, except (a) you need to make sure the remote reservoir doesn't drain, (b) make sure the tyre pressure stays reasonable, so maybe pump up with a foot pump now and then and (c) you don't need to operate the pedal - open the bleed nipple and the fluid should gush out.
For brake fluid I recommend any of the super DOT 4 or the DOT 5.1. DO NOT USE DOT 5 - it's different, won't work and eats small mammals.
For oil, what does it say in the book - I imagine the Toyota is sensitive to oil viscosity so I would use a full synthetic with viscosity as specified in the book - Mobil 1 is a safe bet I think, provided it comes in the right viscosity.
To change the oil, get the engine warm (not hot), put up on wheel ramps or axle stands, remove undertray, locate the sump drain plug, undo it (prepare for oil to run down your arm - hence make sure that you can hold your hand on the sump comfortably - if the sump is too hot to touch, then the oil will burn you). Note there is a probably a washer on the oil plug, so don't lose it. Also the oil will flow better if you remove the oil filler cap. I suggest removing the keys from the ignition to make sure there is no danger of engine being cranked while there is no oil in it.
I assume you don't want to change filter (no point changing sooner than service interval IMHO - the oil is burnt, the filter is fine).
Refit sump plug, make it reasonably tight - should probably do up with a good long spanner or a 1/2" ratchet. Now I would refill with about 3/4 of the oil volume it says in the manual it will take (most oil containers are graduated along one side). Refit filler cap. Make sure there is at least an oil level visible on the dip stick, but it doesn't need to be full.
Run up the engine (don't rev, just tick over) and make sure no oil is escaping from the sump plug.
Switch off engine. Refit undertray. Drive off ramps. Now measure oil level with dip stick again. Fill up with oil to right level.
Job done.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
Also just noticed that the level is getting near the lower marker, but that was with a cold engine (not used car at all today). 
