The car was running great until this weekend.
I decided to disconect the hose connecting the airbox to the NS side scoop in order to check the air filter cone. All was fine so I put it back in place. I was aware that I doing a bt of pushing and pulling of the hose and the wires down in that left hand side in order to get the end near the scoop opening but all seemed fine. Went to Bed
When I went for a drive in the car today it started fine and seemed to drive well but after a while I reaslised that it was idling at about 2500rpm and was as if the throttle was constantly on. It ran ok(ish) but at junctions when the clutch was depressed the revs stayed high before slowly dropping back down towards the 2 -2500 mark.
Being a mechanical numptie I took the hose off and looked in the area where it goes to see if there was anything obviously broken/missing/disconnected but wasnt really sure what I am looking for and couldnt see anything obvious.
Help, advice and pointers most welcome.
Jim
S1 exige engine problem.
S1 exige engine problem.
Planes, Trains and Automobiles. Wanted: Train.
I would check that the temperature sensors are properly connected.
I would also check that the barometric pressure sensor (it's a MAP sensor bolted into the airbox air path somewhere) is properly connected.
I would also check that the vacuum hose that operates the flap in the air intake is still connected to the wee vacuum "gantry" that runs across the top of the throttle bodies - if it's staying open then you'll be allowing air into the engine and it will rev.
If you want to take some reasonable pictures of the engine bay (especially the intake system) I'll be happy to draw some lines on the picture.
Cheers,
Robin
EDIT: above I misleadingly said "staying open" what I meant to say was "disconnected" - i.e. a vacuum hose with nothing on the end of it.
I would also check that the barometric pressure sensor (it's a MAP sensor bolted into the airbox air path somewhere) is properly connected.
I would also check that the vacuum hose that operates the flap in the air intake is still connected to the wee vacuum "gantry" that runs across the top of the throttle bodies - if it's staying open then you'll be allowing air into the engine and it will rev.
If you want to take some reasonable pictures of the engine bay (especially the intake system) I'll be happy to draw some lines on the picture.
Cheers,
Robin
EDIT: above I misleadingly said "staying open" what I meant to say was "disconnected" - i.e. a vacuum hose with nothing on the end of it.
Last edited by robin on Mon May 07, 2007 9:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Thanks for that Robin. 
I have printed it off and am going to pop into Dave Stanleys' tomorrow so he can identify these bits on his exige for me.
Will update tomorrow after I see what I am supposed to be looking at.
Jim
That will teach me to keep the engine lid shut and stick to polishing!
I have printed it off and am going to pop into Dave Stanleys' tomorrow so he can identify these bits on his exige for me.
Will update tomorrow after I see what I am supposed to be looking at.
Jim
That will teach me to keep the engine lid shut and stick to polishing!
Planes, Trains and Automobiles. Wanted: Train.
Jim
Had the same thing happen to me when I cleaned my Pipercross Filters.
As Robin rightly states any movement of the air intake will disconnect the vacuum pipe. If your emissions flap is disconnected.....you would be as well to blank it off. (a pop rivet or a self tapper screw works!!)
Your idle will return to its usual lumpy self
Had the same thing happen to me when I cleaned my Pipercross Filters.
would also check that the vacuum hose that operates the flap in the air intake is still connected to the wee vacuum "gantry" that runs across the top of the throttle bodies - if it's staying open then you'll be allowing air into the engine and it will rev.
As Robin rightly states any movement of the air intake will disconnect the vacuum pipe. If your emissions flap is disconnected.....you would be as well to blank it off. (a pop rivet or a self tapper screw works!!)
Your idle will return to its usual lumpy self
Younger member of Team Still Game
99 Lotus Elise 111S.....Heterosexual Spec ...S1
BMW Z4M40i
Range Rover Velar
2022 Spec Mini JCW
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99 Lotus Elise 111S.....Heterosexual Spec ...S1
BMW Z4M40i
Range Rover Velar
2022 Spec Mini JCW
BMW R9T Scrambler Sport
Monkey Bike with 125cc conversion
Honda 250 Race Quad
Womaniser Liberty
As an update...
I took the car through to Dave and we (ok, he did all the work) compared bits and swapped sensors over to no avail. Then we disconnected the IACV and noted that the the valve was sticking partially open. After a good clean out and spray it all went back together and worked perfectly!!
Thanks to all
Jim
I took the car through to Dave and we (ok, he did all the work) compared bits and swapped sensors over to no avail. Then we disconnected the IACV and noted that the the valve was sticking partially open. After a good clean out and spray it all went back together and worked perfectly!!
Thanks to all
Jim
Planes, Trains and Automobiles. Wanted: Train.