(Now Non-) Urgent Advice please -

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:04 pm

just puttting on new discs for buyer and the first wheel bolt just sheared right off at the base of the widest part

Im currently eating lunch waiting for the wheel etc to cool to freezing point hoping that it will all shrink a little.

Gonna try and shape the threaded part of the snapped bolt with an angle grinder and remove it with a conventional socket once the wheel is off.

Will pop round and get a normal bolt to replace it - hopefully no others will do the same.

There seems to be no way to get good access to WD40 it (rear wheels)

Ive got this afternoon to get this sorted..crumbs!

Cheers, Mike

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:20 pm

To replace the stud its a hub off, new wheel bearing job. They are not normal mild steel bolts, there all high tensile steel.

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:36 pm

Cheers...

why does the wheel bearing get binned?

And, so, will i get good enough bolts from a normal car parts place?

Ta!

Post by **simon** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:45 pm

John Reid wrote:To replace the stud its a hub off, new wheel bearing job. They are not normal mild steel bolts, there all high tensile steel.

On an S1 maybe but the S2 doesn't have studs on the hub.
Just get the bolt out, buy some new ones and you're sorted. You probably won't get the new bolts from a motor factor as they're Lotus specific. You can swap the lot with standard bolts instead, that's what I did after mine got drilled off. Either that or you can call MMC and get replacement bolts from them.

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 4:04 pm

just got the replacement bolts for the two that sheared...all tyhe others came off fine.

Need to get drilling now...got titaanium coated drill bits hpoefully they are up to it.

The little allen bolt is stuyck too...prolly dont really need that tho eh?

mac · Post by **mac** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 4:27 pm

Nah - you don't need that but it's nice to have.

Try and get some left handed drill bits though - they might help.

Mac

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 5:35 pm

left handed drill bits..interesting....

Got some "titanium" coated ones doubt there as good as solid tungsten carbide beasts but its working

Managed to drill out one bolt and half of the other...then battery pooped...so recharging it and my cold ass for now.

There is light at the end of the tunnel...

Was tricky getting remainders of the thread out of the hub. some of thread now worn but i believ there will be still enough grip to hold the bolts at the appropriate torque....

mac · Post by **mac** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 6:33 pm

Hence the left handed drill bits - not only do they drill the hole they will also try and unscrew the bolt as the cut

Mac

robin · Post by **robin** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 8:46 pm

I have stud removers, but too late now ...

Robin

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 8:50 pm

Ah..thank you anyway Robin.

What are they like just out of interest?

I bought some easy-outs or whatever they are called...but they couldnt bind into the strong steel to exert an unwinding force strong enough.

robin · Post by **robin** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:56 am

They are like a socket but with a fairly long left handed screw thread (imagine an inside out self tapping screw, I suppose). You screw them over the stud; they cut into the metal until they either strip the metal off or unscrew the stud ... provided you have 10mm of stud left I think you'll have success with them.

Cheers,
Robin

Victor Meldrew · Post by **Victor Meldrew** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:07 am

John Reid wrote:To replace the stud its a hub off, new wheel bearing job. They are not normal mild steel bolts, there all high tensile steel.

Ah one of the new improved ones... they still sheer as well then..glad you got it out.

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:18 am

Any advice for the new owner i can pass on? How do we replace these bad boys with more reliable items....?

thinfourth · Post by **thinfourth** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:20 pm

Use loads of copper slip when you put them in which is an anti seize compound also put a thin layer on the wheel hubs where the wheel goes on and it should stop the wheel sticking too

Michael · Post by **Michael** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:08 pm

sounds like a plan