S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 2250rpm

a4drk · Post by **a4drk** » Sun May 22, 2016 10:50 pm

Tick over when warm is about 2250rpm
if you blip the throttle a little, it goes back to 1000rpm

its been doing this for ages & its annoying me know

any thoughts how to fix it ?

David

Stephen · Post by **Stephen** » Mon May 23, 2016 6:17 am

The throttle cable may be sticking have you checked it?

a4drk · Post by **a4drk** » Mon May 23, 2016 7:08 am

Cables fine- I oiled it too

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Stephen · Post by **Stephen** » Mon May 23, 2016 7:21 am

The other thing is the pedal linkage. It can cause this to happen on the S1 when the bush wears and fouls. I think it may be the same in early S2's but not 100%

a4drk · Post by **a4drk** » Mon May 23, 2016 7:22 am

I thought it might have been the throttle body thing that the air filter pipe clamps onto

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Stephen · Post by **Stephen** » Mon May 23, 2016 7:24 am

This problem
http://www.sandercock.com/elisebush.htm

a4drk · Post by **a4drk** » Mon May 23, 2016 7:28 am

No. That's for K series.
Mines Toyota
Thanks anyway

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robin · Post by **robin** » Mon May 23, 2016 7:51 am

The pedal box is the same on the last of the K and the early Toyotas. So the problem could be the bush.

However, I'll bet it is the throttle body. You could try cleaning it by taking off the intake pipe and squirt in whatever carb cleaner is called these days. Don't be tempted to clean/lube with WD40 - it might fix it in the short term but will make it worse in the longer run.

You can easily prove that the problem is mechanical (if it is!). Get the engine into the state where it is idling too fast, open the engine lid and locate the throttle quadrant (the thing that the throttle cable connects too). Grab it and close it firmly. If the revs drop, the cause of the fast idle is that the throttle isn't quite shutting properly.

Now what causes that? There a number of possibilities.

You can eliminate the cable if there's plenty of slack at full shut. If it's not obvious, you might want to release the throttle cable from the mount so that it exerts no force on the quadrant at all and see if the problem persists (you'll need to use the quadrant manually now, obviously, because the cable won't work).

If it still doesn't snap shut then either there is some crud stopping the butterfly closing, or the spring has lost some of its springosity (unlikely) or the throttle body is distorted by the air filter jubilee clip and this is preventing the round butterfly shutting into the now oval body. This is unlikely for a cast alloy throttle body - more likely for a plastic one.

If you cannot reproduce the problem with the cable off, it's either too tight - slacken it off a bit - or the pedal/cable is a bit sticky - see above.

Cheers,
Robin

tut · Post by **tut** » Mon May 23, 2016 8:20 am

"springosity"

Has to be a first.............AND it's a winner.

tut

a4drk · Post by **a4drk** » Mon May 23, 2016 8:26 am

Robin - can you be more specific please ?

Lol ....... Thanks v much
I'll pick up some carb cleaner today
Cheers
David

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alicrozier · Post by **alicrozier** » Mon May 23, 2016 9:14 am

I usually roll out this one last option for sticking butterfly...
http://www.scottishelises.com/phpbb/vie ... er#p199333

A quick test for this is if the butterfly snaps shut properly with engine off but sticks when the engine is running.
(then some carb cleaner in the IACV)

a4drk · Post by **a4drk** » Mon May 23, 2016 9:15 am

Thanks ali

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Dominic · Post by **Dominic** » Mon May 23, 2016 9:25 am

a4drk wrote:Robin - can you be more specific please ?

Lol ....... Thanks v much
I'll pick up some carb cleaner today
Cheers
David

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wynns-1831014- ... er+cleaner

istoo · Post by **istoo** » Mon May 23, 2016 11:39 am

alicrozier wrote: (then some carb cleaner in the IACV)

My S2 K 111s did this last year, replaced the IACV and it never did it again. Cleaning throttle body was first point of call, but i did the IAVC at the same time so cant say which it was. Used to be a very similar symptom on late 80/early 90's VAGs

UncleRon · Post by **UncleRon** » Mon May 23, 2016 11:59 pm

The S2 Elise Toyota 2ZZ engines have a separate Idle Air Control Valve mounted on the side of the Throttle body itself which have a small internal cylinder which can stick.

I cleaned mine last year - I did have to replace the small internal rectangular like shaped rubber gasket during the rebuild as they commonly expand after dismantling although they are cheap and easily available from Toyota dealers.

This is a similar 'how to' that I used ;

https://www.celicahobby.com/forums/ubbt ... clean.html

Scottish Elises

S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 2250rpm

S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 2250rpm

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225

Re: S2 Exige / (or 111R) - 2004 - Tick over when warm is 225