Scottish Elises

taking front clam of tmrw cos system is leaking coolant. If plastic end cap on rad is cracked could i fix it with resin for fibre glass?? Aparently it can bond to plastics and metal....

Is there an all alu version of the rad? Cant believe the design of this one.
Cheers

Michael wrote:taking front clam of tmrw cos system is leaking coolant. If plastic end cap on rad is cracked could i fix it with resin for fibre glass?? Aparently it can bond to plastics and metal....

Is there an all alu version of the rad? Cant believe the design of this one.
Cheers

Yes, eliseparts sell an all alu one that is, presumably, welded. Don't think you'll be able to rebond it - the original is crimped and the crimps fatigue.

I have a spare radiator if you're needing to get it sorted quickly.

Cheers,
Robin

Ah, I see. That rad is only 1.5yrs old as well. I'd love to have your rad..pm coming up!

Sorry, haven't been following this, but are you sure the radiator is shot? On my S1 the hoses weren't correctly fitted resulting in losing coolant. I simply had to loosen off the jubliee clips, push the hoses on properly and re-tighten then. This was all done without removing the clam. Access via wheel arch liners and removing the radiator could.

Nearly always the hoses that cause the problem on an S1, nearly always a knackered rad on the S2. Its defintely worth paying the extra 60 quid for an all ali one from Eliseparts. I know changing it is only a 3 hour job but if you get the uprated rad you'll never have to do it again.

HTH

Dan@JPS

What he said! If I hadn't had my S2 one under warranty I would have bought the alu one.

But in case you want to take a chance on my old rad it's in the hall here with Michael written on it. There's someone in most of the time weekdays - if you want to be sure give me a call on the mobile before you come and collect it.

Cheers,
Robin

Wow..lots of early risers on a sunday..!! Turns out that clam removal can be done single handed

Anyway, the coolant seems to be appearing from the junction between the plastic and metal along its length on the near side. This is seen from just light wetting of the plastic as opposed to a trickle for eg.

Interestingly there is also a wet patch on the underside of the rad in the middle next to the windscreen side...wonder if a tone has come through and knocked it there cracking it open. Come tothink of it i would be surprised if a lot of rads were not damaged this way

Cheers Robin...on my way...!

Dan, is that 3 hrs on and off with two men? it took me (alone) three hrs yesterday to just get the clam off! Will be faster next time i suppose!

HHHow important is the use of OAT stuff

Cheers

Michael wrote:Dan, is that 3 hrs on and off with two men? it took me (alone) three hrs yesterday to just get the clam off! Will be faster next time i suppose.

No that's 3 hours to remove the clam, replace the rad (including removing and refixing the fan mounts), bleeding and refitting the clam. On my own.

I did a 135R on Friday (same problem) and I charged him 3 hours labour.

Dan@JPS

...hmm wish i had a car lift!!

To be honest, it doesn't really make much difference using a lift. Access is nice and easy for removing clams just using axle stands under the front.

When you do these jobs as often as I do, you get quite quick at it. That's another reason why it doesn't cost so much.

Dan@JPS

is it ok to put them under the wishbones?

Michael wrote:is it ok to put them under the wishbones?

Not really... Jacking and supporting points are in the manual.

Michael wrote:is it ok to put them under the wishbones?

Wishbones will bend easily. A definite no no.

Dan@JPS

cheers...

Whatever anyone does...dont try bending the crimps back. Even witha special technique i thought of its worse than ever. coolant everywhere