I looked at the coolant tank... its empty
Overheating. Argh!
Overheating. Argh!
Happened last night after the ScotElise meet( which, I should add, was awsome!).Temp creeeeps real slow when sitting idling to 100...101....102 with the fan on it still goes up. I let it climb to 106 (well within cooking range of 120) and switched it off. Its fine on the move...tis a steady 86 (which is actually higher than the norm for my car which is usually 80-82).
I looked at the coolant tank... its empty
. I aint moved it since last night. Suggestions anyone?
I looked at the coolant tank... its empty
Series 1 Elise, Nautilus Blue.
Put more in the expansion tank (remember the cold fill mark is actually the 'min' mark - it should climb nearer 'max' when hot) Start the engine running and see how quickly it dissappears.
As Simon says, check for mayo on the oil cap. If there's none, take a look round the block to see if there's any witness marks of leaks around the head gasket level.
It's not necessarily HGF, could be a weeping coolant pipe to the rad (check behind the offside front inner wheelarch) Could also be an inlet manifold gasket.
Few things to check basically.... Fingers crossed for you buddy
As Simon says, check for mayo on the oil cap. If there's none, take a look round the block to see if there's any witness marks of leaks around the head gasket level.
It's not necessarily HGF, could be a weeping coolant pipe to the rad (check behind the offside front inner wheelarch) Could also be an inlet manifold gasket.
Few things to check basically.... Fingers crossed for you buddy
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Check in the coolant bottle for signs of mayo too. If theres no sign of it anywhere it could just be a cap fault causing a pressure drop and making it overheat. This would be the cheapest option. You could take it to a garage and get them to do a coolant pressure test for leaks, then do a sniffer test for head gasket failure. Sniffer test is a bottle that you put a special fluid in and run the car up to temp, then you suck the gas out of the expantion bottle through the fluid. It there's any hydrocarbons (there should be none in a cooling system) then the fluid changes colour to signify a leak from the cylinders into the cooling jackets. Eg, h/g/f.
If your struggling for someone to do it, give me a shout, i've got all the stuff to check it here.
If your struggling for someone to do it, give me a shout, i've got all the stuff to check it here.
Im struggling! Elp! All garages are busy and cant look at it bah. I think its what you suggested shug as theres no mayo anywhere or white smoke on startup. Must be a leak somewhere in the front pipage as you said. Either that or a weak cap on the coolant tank as it was seeping out when I switched the engine off at the 106 mark. I read the manual and it stated that leakage shouldnt occur until 120 degrees.
Gordon ya got pm.
Gordon ya got pm.
Series 1 Elise, Nautilus Blue.
Tar for the advie n offers to help guys. I think its ok for now...I refilled it with coolant and the temps are stable and the fan cools the car as usual at 98 degrees. However it IS sitting at 86 most of the time instead of the normal 80-82 so im going to get the whole system purged and refilled next thursday. Fingers crossed till then.
Series 1 Elise, Nautilus Blue.
Don't pay too much attention to numbers on the gauge... Just think, if it was a standard damped analogue gauge on a standard car, you'd *never* notice the fluctuations we're worrying about.
If the car sits at a standard temp, within 5 degrees, and rises in traffic, drops when the fan comes on - it's probably perfectly fine
The electrical fluctuations point to bad earthing. Clean up the earth strap to the chassis in the engine bay and check connections - that should sort it to an extent.
(Standard stat is 87deg, btw)
If the car sits at a standard temp, within 5 degrees, and rises in traffic, drops when the fan comes on - it's probably perfectly fine
The electrical fluctuations point to bad earthing. Clean up the earth strap to the chassis in the engine bay and check connections - that should sort it to an extent.
(Standard stat is 87deg, btw)
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R