Ride Height Spring compression

[r10crw]

Not wanting to hijack the other thread,

Should the springs always be under compression? With adjustable ride height collars I might look to drop the front of my car a little which will mean when jacked the springs will not be loaded. Is this an issue?

[Mikie711]

Other than a significant loss in travel of the dampener meaning it will bottom out much sooner as long as the spring doesn't unseat itself over a bump or kerb then should be OK.

[mckeann]

due to poorly designed nitrons that is how my S2 suspension was. I was told it may fail an MOT if they springs weren't properly located when the wheel was jacked, but it never did. Gave no problems when driving it, but i guess there is the potential for the spring not to seat correctly on the collar.

[r10crw]

Thanks guys, I shouldnt need to slacken too much just 5-10mm so may still just be under the slightest compression.

To be fair its probably about right just now at maybe 120/125 front/rear but would prefer it down to 115 maybe a little lower at the front to give me a little better stance. Ive already raised the rear so didnt want to take it much more.

[robin]

Actually with Nitrons on my S2 I've got both problems - at the front the helper springs are completely coil bound even with the wheel off the ground; at the rear the spring is unloaded when the rear is off the ground. Handles well enough for me though!

Cheers,
Robin

[woody]

Actually with Nitrons on my S2 I've got both problems - at the front the helper springs are completely coil bound even with the wheel off the ground; at the rear the spring is unloaded when the rear is off the ground. Handles well enough for me though!

Cheers,
Robin

Surely then the front helper isn't required?

[robin]

Correct - it is just a spacer; I could remove it, but it would have no real effect - the main spring is far from coil bound and the available damper travel would be exactly the same. If I ever take the dampers off (must do that soon, I suppose) then I'll remove the helpers; I will need to ask Nitron what the recommended brackets are for my car/chosen ride height so as to get a reasonable amount of droop travel on the front wheel.

Cheers,
Robin

[alicrozier]

My Exige with stiffer Ohlins had lots of gap on full droop. I asked the question but it was never and issue, it never unseated.

Not like it was ever on full droop...

[Ferg]

I've got the older NTR spec although new bits after recent refurb. Fronts are only half a turn onto the spring so pretty good but the rears have to be compressed quite a bit. Sounds like the opposite to some others here. The droop is negligible on the rear. Makes it feel a bit skippy IMO.

[Rosssco]

There has been a fairly recent thread on VX220.org where a proposed resolution to the percieved lack of droop associated with earlier Nitron NTR dampers. This in combination with bumpstops that were too small, had an effect of causing upper rear wishbone damage (due to contact with the rear subframe).

I believe Nitron are now offering a "reasonably priced" refurb service which includeds parts to increase amount of rear droop on the dampers, and fit correspondingly longer rear springs..

[r10crw]

The rear wishbone issue is something Id forgoten about, I had this after the kerbs at Folembray with an S2 and Nitrons, basically the bottom wishbone (when the cars sit lower) contacts the subframe and gives it a little kink on the top edge. Dont think its an issue with the S1 setup though, the S2 wishbones including early Rover S2 are very different as is the subframe.

[Ferg]

Yes, no bottom wishbone contact as far as I can see. Shame as the upgrade to longer rods isn't cheap so a cheap refurb to achieve it would have been nice.