S2 Lambda sensors removal

[martins]

In the process of replacing the Cat on an Exige S2 240.

Anyone in the Aberdeen area got a tool for removing the lambda sensors on an S2 exhaust, or is it just a case of open ended spanner and hope for the best?

I have also got a sticking spring bolt which holds the Cat part of the exhaust to the manifold. By sticking I mean it will both tighten and slacken by a turn but when I try and slacken all the way back it sticks and starts to feel like it wants to snap..I have applied liberal amounts of WD40 over the past 12 hours but it still really does not want to move freely. Do I just give it the beans and hope for the best or do something more intelligent?

Also. Tried to remove the rear panel with the number plate etc on it and as luck would have it the last Allen head bolt refused to come out and now I have rounded it off. I take it the best way to remove is to simply drill it out or is there a trick I might be missing...

Rgds

M.

[neil]

Martin

Forget WD40 - Plusgas is what you need. Spray it on, let it soak in overnight and the bolts should come off no problem. I've probably got some left from when I did my exhaust. Will look it out tonight.

Neil

[neil]

Oh and a ring spanners the tool for the job on the lambda sensors, after you've sprayed on some Plusgas

[Shug]

The "right" tool is a crows-foot spanner (IIRC) Basically looks like a ring spanner with a slot cut in it - gives better purchase as there's nothing that Lambda sensors love more than rounding off cos they are welded in. Ring spanner usually doesn't get over the plug on the cable. Get the plusgas on it and hopefully that will loosen it enough to make this unimportant.

WRT the exhaust bolt, if the plusgas doesn't work - a wee blowtorch can sometimes be a valiant ally.

The only trick with the rounded allen bolt is if you've got a dremel or similar - grind a slot in the head and get a flat-head screwdriver on it. TBH, probably just as easy to drill it out.

[Rich H]

A ring spanner over the top might be made to fit if you take the plug to bits - it's only 4 wires. Then beat the spanner with a hammer - a lot.

The proper lambda sensor tools are crap, on her smart I had to use one, put the tool over then top and gave it some welly with a 3' breaker bar - the bloody thing opened up and slipped.
Ended up using a jubilee clip around it to stop it opening up and got it cherry red hot.

I'd skip the plusgas and get a blowtoch on it if it won't move - It will be very stuck. Get it f-hot and it'll come out.

Or the other option, chuck it all in the bin and fit a new one
I've never re-used on after an extraction!! A pattern part is cheap enough and worth the risk if you can get to it in-situ if it doesn't last.

[Shug]

Genuinely never had an issue getting a Lambda sensor out of my car and still have the original narrowband sitting on a shelf (wideband in it for years)...

I think it's user error :p

[Rich H]

Her poxy smart car more like.
The mild steel bolts holding the exhaust on had dissolved leaving little pyramids of very very hard steel thanks to the Germans/Spanish mixing mild and stainless.
My S1 lambda was a right pig to shift I seem to remember too....

[martins]

Many thanks to all for the hint and tips.

Have done some online purchasing of Plusgas, crows foot spanner and other necessities that came to mind....ooooooooooo tools.......

Will hopefully have the cat on by this weekend. Am still trying to find a way around my dear lady with regard to a replacement back box, Jim 2ubular style but to date no success....then again she will be down in Glasgow on the 24th for the Muse concert and thereafter her hearing will be impared.....

M

[Mikie711]

, Keep working the manifold bolt in and out, the rust on the threads is what is stopping it but will work free eventually. The rear panel allen bolt is into either a spring capture or an alloy strip in the boot. If it's the spring capture then just bend it to get it out after drilling off the head. If the later then lift the boot carpet and sound deadening and you'll see the other end which will be through a rivet nut. Drill it out and I will come round and set a new rivet nut for you. Once you get the cat out bring it round, nowt like a bit of heat

[martins]

Keep working the manifold bolt in and out, the rust on the threads is what is stopping it but will work free eventually. The rear panel allen bolt is into either a spring capture or an alloy strip in the boot. If it's the spring capture then just bend it to get it out after drilling off the head. If the later then lift the boot carpet and sound deadening and you'll see the other end which will be through a rivet nut. Drill it out and I will come round and set a new rivet nut for you. Once you get the cat out bring it round, nowt like a bit of heat

Mike

Noted re the manifold bolt.

Will take you up on your offer if I have trouble freeing anything. Must invest in a blow torch, sounds like much fun

Out of town Tuesday PM till Thursday PM so will be another W/E under the car....

M

M

[Kinger]

Neil,

You forgot to tell Martin to make sure he keeps the area well vented when liberally using plus gas, or risk upsetting the wife or neighbours. The smell sure travels well.

Cheers

[neil]

Neil,

You forgot to tell Martin to make sure he keeps the area well vented when liberally using plus gas, or risk upsetting the wife or neighbours. The smell sure travels well.

Cheers

I'd forgotten about that "incident"

[martins]

I'd forgotten about that "incident"

tell me more????

Martin