4-2-1 and exhaust wrap?
4-2-1 and exhaust wrap?
My 4-2-1 should be here in a week or so, Janspeed small bore with flexi. What is the consensus on heat wrap? Have heard it's pointless as it can damage the exhaust with overheating and warping, but it's Stainless so I can't really see that being a big problem.
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
Re: 4-2-1 and exhaust wrap?
I would. Might make it brittle, but by the time it's done that, you'll be swapping it for a big bore solid number anyway (to go with the 200bhp grenade you'll have turned it into by thenRICHARDHUMBLE wrote:My 4-2-1 should be here in a week or so, Janspeed small bore with flexi. What is the consensus on heat wrap? Have heard it's pointless as it can damage the exhaust with overheating and warping, but it's Stainless so I can't really see that being a big problem.
Plus - speeds up cylinder scavenge and protects alternator. Spray it with the sealing heat resistant paint afterwards, or it'll get oily & turn into a fire hazard.
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Can't say it hurt Gordon's car... You can't compare a facking 7 litre V12 to the K series! If you heat wrap it and paint it, the fire hazard is zero (which I'm sure was the problem with the heat wrap vs. coating from memory)Sanjoy wrote:I posted on SE1 at Xmas about this. Bottom line was no and if you must get it ceramic coated but it shifts the heat elsewhere.
Glowing Zonda tail pipes anyone ?
I'm not too bothered about theoretical physics - the empirically tested opinion is that it works....
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
There was something a while ago on SELOC about the fact that in the elise they get wet which can accelerate corrosion (even on stainless systems)
I seem to remember something about every time you use the car the steam/drying wrap doesn't smell very good.
maybe the sealant paint shug mentioned would cure that too though.
I seem to remember something about every time you use the car the steam/drying wrap doesn't smell very good.
maybe the sealant paint shug mentioned would cure that too though.
Baggy
Silver S1 111s
The Deen
Silver S1 111s
The Deen
I've been using wrapping for some time now and can say there is no problem.
And I had at one time a leaking oil hose, and it leaked onto the pipe (as soon as it got hot the oil turned into fumes and evaporated).
Could think probably if there was a sudden release of oil onto the exhaust, like a BROKEN hose, then it would be different, but for most of it, people are being paranoid.
I was concerned with wrapping which is why first I went to ceramic coating with shielding.
The pipes were running red hot (which is normal from what I hear for ceramic coated) and soon a crack developed.
They were still emmitting loads of heat, so I put in a heat shield and got rid of it soon thereafter because of the rattling.
But needed to control the heat, because was cooking the wires around the alternator and melted the boots of the shift linkage when running without protection.
So then tried several different brands of wrapping, they all came apart, disintegrated quite soon.
Then I found the one at nfauto (http://www.nfauto.co.uk/exhaust_wrap.htm) which is pretty good and doesn't come apart, because it has stainless threads interwoven.
It's so good that Jim started using it as well on his 2bular exhausts.
Bottom line (in my case): it works, and I will continue doing it.
And I had at one time a leaking oil hose, and it leaked onto the pipe (as soon as it got hot the oil turned into fumes and evaporated).
Could think probably if there was a sudden release of oil onto the exhaust, like a BROKEN hose, then it would be different, but for most of it, people are being paranoid.
I was concerned with wrapping which is why first I went to ceramic coating with shielding.
The pipes were running red hot (which is normal from what I hear for ceramic coated) and soon a crack developed.
They were still emmitting loads of heat, so I put in a heat shield and got rid of it soon thereafter because of the rattling.
But needed to control the heat, because was cooking the wires around the alternator and melted the boots of the shift linkage when running without protection.
So then tried several different brands of wrapping, they all came apart, disintegrated quite soon.
Then I found the one at nfauto (http://www.nfauto.co.uk/exhaust_wrap.htm) which is pretty good and doesn't come apart, because it has stainless threads interwoven.
It's so good that Jim started using it as well on his 2bular exhausts.
Bottom line (in my case): it works, and I will continue doing it.
As baggy alluded to - the coating spray (it's a silver high-temp spray) seals it - so water, oil or whatever else can't permeate it.Sanjoy wrote:Worth mentioning Uldis has a S1 Exige and water falling on the wrap is not an issue.
SP (way out of his depth)
2010 Honda VFR1200F
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
1990 Honda VFR400 NC30
2000 Honda VTR1000 SP1
2000 Kawasaki ZX-7R
Why bother with a stainless exhaust if the flexi is zinc plated mild steel
Is it worth painting the zorst first then wrap and repaint?
I have ordered 50' of 2" wide stuff, worth doing the rest of the system (De-Cat and larini) while I'm in there?
Is it worth painting the zorst first then wrap and repaint?
I have ordered 50' of 2" wide stuff, worth doing the rest of the system (De-Cat and larini) while I'm in there?
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers

