Scottish Elises

Hello again.

My front tyres are more worn on the inside edges. I'd had a look about an the general information is that Elises are harder on the inside edges and thats just the way it is.
Not having a clue i decided to have the geo checked at Clark Motorsport in Kintore.

Results are as follows....

Before:

After:


The lad that did it said it wasnt badly out of shape but and the only thing he would want to do further is the camber on the front right. He said it would be a wheel off, put in shims type of job which would be a couple of hours labour and minimal parts cost.
Not knowing ANYTHING about this type of thing I was hoping some of the more experienced folk would have a gander. Any and all opinions are very much appreciated.

Basics are symmetry.
The camber is miles out on the LHS front.
Front should be something like -1 rears -2.

The ONLY way to adjust camber is with shims - how else did he do it?
S2's sometimes have problems with getting the front camber right due to the uprights being too wide and need them cutting back a bit.

I'd think it needs a shims out front left and rear left and one adding to rear right - clearly different thicknesses give different camber changes!
Elise parts sell shim packs for a few ££ but the SE massive can probably find some for you.

I see.
He didnt adjust the camber he said he would have wanted to but he didnt have shims and it would have taken him a fair bit longer. He said if i wanted it done he would if i gave him notice and he could order the shims.

Are shims pricey then?
Edit - a couple of quid. (I really should read twice, post once )

I might see if he will have a go at it. Not for any other reason than I'm a faf and have no tools.

Gav.
edit 2: sorry for my bad grammer and probably bad spelling.

Just getting him to take a shim out front left and rear right (Shim out = more negative) might improve things - If there are any to take out.
Shouldn't take long but it depends on weather the bolts come out easily....

Someone on here must have some shims to tune the camber, I did but gave them away a while back.

Not much point buying them as most people take them out!

Rich

OK. I'll have a think about it. I'm not despersate to do it. More curious about whats what.
Cheers again Rich.

its pretty easy to count the shims, see how much room for manouvere there is.

Jack up the left hand side of the car, take both the wheels off, and count or measure the shims between the upright and the balljoint/steering arm. You could easily remove a shim front and rear on the left and that would even everything up nicely

Id ask about your rear toe as well. You want this to be inwards, the amount depends on how aggressive you want but for normal road use 15 minutes should be fine which on a 16 inch wheel is around 1.8mm toe in at the wheel rim. Ideally you should drive the car and see what your happy with or let some of us take a shot. Lots on here know what it should feel like.
Craig.

Agree with Craig - the rear toe data is ambiguous - I cannot tell if you have the rear wheels pointing inwards (stable) or outwards (death trap ).

Also agree with Neil - removing some shims from the left will probably sort the camber well enough - you never get it spot on anyway.

Cheers,
Robin

just one question did he ballast the car when he made the measurements?

cheers,

leigh

dirkpitt wrote:just one question did he ballast the car when he made the measurements?

cheers,

leigh

Looks like there is too much weight on the drivers seat.

Alan

I believe he did but remember i only weigh 120 soaked through (with lead in my pockets, carrying a dog)

Gav.

he did okay just wondered.........a 120 when wet hey. a 120 what thou .oh i know we could ask Alan he seems like a really clever guy yeah babe!!!

good luck with shiming .....i read somewhere each shim will give about 0.25 of a anguler degree, not radians; but what the fcuk would i know!

leigh

Ballast in the drivers seat isn't important. Suspension is a dynamic thing so all your looking for is consistant base settings. i.e. the car ride height is where you want it, not to much static droop, chamber is equal side to side, but can be different front to back. front toe and rear toe are set equal side for side and your castor is the same side for side. Seloc has a list of standard settings in their Wiki have a look.

dirkpitt wrote:he did okay just wondered.........a 120 when wet hey. a 120 what thou .oh i know we could ask Alan he seems like a really clever guy yeah babe!!!

good luck with shiming .....i read somewhere each shim will give about 0.25 of a anguler degree, not radians; but what the fcuk would i know!

leigh

Not sure of the tone of that message....