Scottish Elises

Can someone please PM me answers to this as I don't want this info free for anyone to see.

I tried to get my elise started after almost a year of doing nothing, so the main battery was well and truley knackered as were the batterys in the fob, so I replaced the fob batterys and tried to jump start it but the immobiliser wouldn't turn off. A while ago I fitted the little immobiliser bypass wire thingy but I still need the fob to turn off the immobiliser, I was kind of hoping that was going to be the end of the immobilisers/alarm but it wasn't its still operates the same unless there is something I missed? All I want is it to start off the key with no input from the fob at all...is this possible?

Thanks,
Kev

I'll post on here as its not sensitive information.

The ECU is coded to the 5AS immobiliser module in the dash. The only way you can bypass this is to get the ECU programmed to not look for the 5AS code on startup.

I believe there is a guy down south somewhere who does this for about £80.

The only other option is to run an emerald ECU or the like but that's a bit extreme.

Dan

Dan, surely on the S1 you just have to bridge two pins on the ????? connector in the engine bay.

Craig did this on both N1 and N3.

tut

Thats what I thought would be the case but I bought a bypass thingy from Geary and the car still needed the button pushed on the fob to shut off the immobiliser

tut wrote:Dan, surely on the S1 you just have to bridge two pins on the ????? connector in the engine bay.

Craig did this on both N1 and N3.

tut

N1 and N3 won't be talking to the immobiliser though ('cos they're not running Lotus/Rover ECUs) - that's just the alarm bypass. Looks like a reprogram is the only option - like Dan says. My issue with this resulted in me (temporarily) switching off the immobiliser in the Emerald, but not something you can do with a laptop and a normal ECU.

On the S1 the crank circuit is double immobilised; you only remove half the protection by bridging the immobiliser relay - you must also route a permanent earth to the crank relay instead of the switched earth that is provided by the 5AS. That's pin 1-4 of the MFRU, a black&white wire. The same signal also runs through engine harness connector 1, pin 10. Either way, splice a permanent earth into this wire and then your car will crank whenever you turn the key.

Of course you also need to do what Dan said - hack the ECU to not look for an immobiliser or fit a faker to send a code whenever the ignition is turned on. Both of these require specialist ECU programming tools to get the ECU to recode to the new signal or to know that no code is forthcoming.

Cheers,
Robin

Thanks for those answers you've been very helpful. I found quite a few places on the net that will switch the immobiliser off in the ecu, not that bad for price either.

Kev.

ABZ-Elise wrote:Thanks for those answers you've been very helpful. I found quite a few places on the net that will switch the immobiliser off in the ecu, not that bad for price either.

Kev.

If you use one, post back on this thread with the details and how well it worked out for you ... you won't be the only person wishing to do it

Cheers,
Robin

Sorry to bump an old thread but it seems the best fit for the predicament i find myself in.

clearly being a Honda Car its potentially a bit more complicated but if any sensitive info or guides were shared by Pm can someone please pass that onto me, i have sent a while trying to trace back wires but before i go cutting anything some more information would be good

cheers

foz01 wrote:Sorry to bump an old thread but it seems the best fit for the predicament i find myself in.

clearly being a Honda Car its potentially a bit more complicated but if any sensitive info or guides were shared by Pm can someone please pass that onto me, i have sent a while trying to trace back wires but before i go cutting anything some more information would be good

cheers

Quite the opposite Lowell.

You don't have the Lotus ECU or Engine so all that's left is the simple fuel cut. One of the feeds for the fuel pump relay goes through an immobilser. You can either leave it as is, using the exisitng key fob as pernormal or bridge the pins (black box at the back of the car).

Simples.

Alan

P.S Assuming you're running a KPRO and not standard Honda ECU of course.

Aye its running Kpro

the fuel pump primes but there's a click which i assumed was the Immobiliser stopping the starter- there is the cobra box at the back near the ecu (which looks as it it was part of the original loom)

i will have a good nose around this weekend hopefully when i get the time

cheers!

foz01 wrote:Aye its running Kpro

the fuel pump primes but there's a click which i assumed was the Immobiliser stopping the starter- there is the cobra box at the back near the ecu (which looks as it it was part of the original loom)

i will have a good nose around this weekend hopefully when i get the time

cheers!

I'm far from expert, so may be wrong, but, if the fuel pump is priming, then the starter motor clicks, to me that sounds more like a jammed / gubbed starter motor. IIRC, hitting it with a hammer (yes really) or rocking the car back and forward with it in gear might free it up. Awaits someone with better knowledge to tell me I'm all wrong

foz01 wrote:Aye its running Kpro

the fuel pump primes but there's a click which i assumed was the Immobiliser stopping the starter- there is the cobra box at the back near the ecu (which looks as it it was part of the original loom)

i will have a good nose around this weekend hopefully when i get the time

cheers!

Immobilser stops the relays from firing so they wouldn't click at all.

Don't you have some sort of cut off switch that everything goes into (i.e. Fuel Pump, Starter etc.)???

Agree with Dom, doubt this is anything to do with the immobiliser issuue. Although i've never seen a K20 starter fail, sure it does happen but certainly not common. It's more than likely a wiring issue - Quick multimeter check to the starter solenoid will soon tell you

Will fire up the hammer :p


I have also had issues with a cartek battery cut which also needs removed and replaced with an old school red key as it just kills the battery..

suspect the two may well be combined

cheers guys!

It worked, cheers guys, time to get back to knock hill