Scottish Elises

changing over my track rod ends just now but they are seized on.

any tips for getting the old ones off the track rods?

Ross

angle grinder ?

you confident that you could get your end away with a grinder without damaging your rod?

r055 wrote:you confident that you could get your end away with a grinder without damaging your rod?

the point of this thread was to get that line out wasn't it ?

I wouldn't mind getting a swatch at your rod once you have got it off.

how bad is this thread going to end up ?

no seriously, i dont have a grinder anyway. would applying heat work or soaking it in WD40??
its not budging!

have you got a removal tool?

philthy wrote:have you got a removal tool?

no, ive got the track rod end off of the hub assembly ok, its just taking the threaded part off thats connects to the track rod/ steering rack thats an issue

That pops em off the upright, but Ross' are stuck to the track rod (from which they unscrew)

All I can suggest is soak in WD40 overnight and get heat on them.

Also, I take it you're using good mole grips to hold the track rod while you try and unscrew?

ahh alrighty, read that a bit fast

I'd suggest lots of wd40 soaked in and brute force

If anything is seized in work we normally just apply some head to it and a little bit of force and it normally comes. We normally put a thing called rocol on the threads which stops them any bolts nuts seizing. Prosume you could use copper grease or something to prevent this problem reoccuring. Not sure how this would be i.e. easier to loosen over time by itself, but I know the bolts are torqued up pretty tight on the pumps in my work to withstand the 700+ bar of pressure with the rocol and wont cause them to unlossen.

s29ttc wrote:If anything is seized in work we normally just apply some head to it and a little bit of force and it normally comes. We normally put a thing called rocol on the threads which stops them any bolts nuts seizing. Prosume you could use copper grease or something to prevent this problem reoccuring. Not sure how this would be i.e. easier to loosen over time by itself, but I know the bolts are torqued up pretty tight on the pumps in my work to withstand the 700+ bar of pressure with the rocol and wont cause them to unlossen.

Rocol, J166? It is just copaslip really.

Have you got the lock-nut undone? If you have, as above a couple of sets of mole-grips rumped right up, and failing that get some heat onto it.

got it- as always ti was just getting the right leverage and brute force onto it as well as soaking it in wd40.
The locknut is still seized though but im getting there.... slowly!

my ball joints are all fcuked as well - i'll need to go buy a set of 8 and do them all at once i suppose.
where's the best place to buy them and how much they going for?

motor factors not that expensive there is a part number on here somewhere

r055 wrote:
got it- as always ti was just getting the right leverage and brute force onto it as well as soaking it in wd40.
The locknut is still seized though but im getting there.... slowly!

my ball joints are all fcuked as well - i'll need to go buy a set of 8 and do them all at once i suppose.
where's the best place to buy them and how much they going for?

Apparently, from one of the specalists , elise parts or elise shop. Both claim to only stock the correct ball-joints for the elise; some of the generic ball joints are sourced from various sub con manufacturers and are not of a uniform & elise fitting design - missing/too small a chamfer, variations in spline lingth and OD and the stiffness of the joint itself etc...

Do you have the removal/fitting tool? Not used one, but looks like it'll be ideal for the job.