Scottish Elises

Has anyone replaced the liners in their engine?

Is it easy to do or does the block have to go to an engine builder?

Ian K

I think the trick in fitting new liners is ensuring that they stand proud from the block surface by 5 thou, but you wont know until they've been test fitted. In terms of actually replacing them, after the crank is off and the pistons are out, you can just push the liners out the block using hand pressure in theory.

Never tried it myself TBH, but i've been on excelent terms with the s2 service manual over the last 3 weeks

Cheers,

Steve

The heating vent next to light switches ,Can these be replaced easy enough ? Mines has snapped somehow , it sits funny now.

j33ama wrote:The heating vent next to light switches ,Can these be replaced easy enough ? Mines has snapped somehow , it sits funny now.

Might want to start a new thread for that one mate

I think he thought he had

I would think liner replacement is not trivial. Why do you need to swap them? Might be easier to get a short block.

woops, bit random eh !

Hi,

The engine has been over heated.

I have already had the head skimmed and the gasket replaced but the engine won't fire.

Compression tested and readings very low on all cylinders.

No option now but to strip and rebuild.

I don't mind rebuilding the engine including the liners and prefer to rebuild what I have, and not buy a short engine which could be as bad.

Anyway I have already ordered the pistons and liners hence the question on changing them.

Ian K

You want to take it to stu aka pollock precision in livingston he is an SE person and he knows his stuff and can fix your liner woes or at least give very good advice

I would also have a chat with Kwikrog or DVA, I have asked DVA some stupid questions and he is very patient and helpful!!

Thanks for the replies.

I will get the head off first, check the bottom end and then take it from there.

Ian K

It's not hard. The rover K service book gives you all the procedures for measuring wear and deciding what all needs to be replaced. Chances are, though, that for your engine you'll end up needing to get the block height set correctly for the liners, rather than actually replacing the liners (you still need to remove and replace them though).

Depending on engine age I would suggest replacing the pistons, rods and rings at the same time (at 50K and beyond it's a false economy not to replace them - by 75K they'll be pretty loose in the bore).

It would also make sense to replace both crank oil seals, as these tend to weep when older.

You have to replace the big end bearings when you disconnect the conrods from the crank, especially if you're replacing the pistons&rods.

Should be an enjoyable job, but will take a while.

If you were going to pay someone else to do this, by the time you've bought all the time & materials as well as paid the engineering place to deck the block, buying a brand new short engine from PTP might not be much more expensive and is guaranteed to be spot on (1150+delivery+VAT).

Cheers,
Robin

Hi Robin,

I agree with you, and as well as ordering the pistons and liners I have ordered everything else including the shells big ends/mains, timing belt, tensioner and gasket sets.

I will more than likely do the rebuild myself as to be honest there is nothing too drastic in the k series as long as you remember where all of the bits go. Besides that it is for my sons car, okay it's an MGF as I can't justify buying him a Lotus, but it's the same engine as the s1 elise but with less room to work on it and also I am the one paying the bills.

The only thing that I will have to watch out for will be the heights of the liners, but that's about it.

I do need to recheck the head, as I just had it skimmed, and should have checked the valves, but that's what happens when you rush a job.

I just need some free time to get the work done and it's not easy when I am trying to rebuild an old elan S4, looking after my other sons M100 elan S2, pampering the elise and so on.

Ian K

I assume you got pistons and rods? They come as a single item according to the manual, but no doubt they are available without rods - splitting the rod from the piston is non-trivial

Cheers,
Robin

Quick update.

Yes the liners can be removed with the engine still in place and Robin I only ordered pistons but I will get a machine shop to change the rods over.

Head is off again and I have just checked the liner height, and they are sitting only 2 thou above the block, therefore the mls gasket would never have sealed correctly but that was not the main problem. Removed the oil rail and pulled out the pistons, and I now know why there was no compression, most of the rings on the pistons are seized. Removed the liners, and who was it that said they just push out. No 1 came out without too much trouble but I had to drift the others out. Just waiting for the new liners to arrive so that I can check the height in the block but even if the liner height ends up correct I think that I am going to put the head back on with one of the original type gaskets and not a MLS.

What do people think?

What type of sealant do people use for the liners, is it hylomar?

Ian K


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