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Geo with Mark from Banchory

Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 2:28 pm
by Gareth
Thought I would cross post one of Tuts emails from Yahoo. Another satisfied customer. Sounds excellent. Need to decide If I'm going to get it done before East Fortune.

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Spent yesterday at Marks, he worked on the car for six hours. A pleasure to
watch him in action and work with him. The equipment that he has
fabricated, and his means of setting it up to measure toe, is something
else, but he is a stickler for accuracy, and it is more satisfying and
re-assuring to see it done this way and check the measurements than it is by
laser. Of course I forgot to take photos, but maybe someone else could when
they go along.

Started with corner weighting, and I doubt if he will see a car further out,
The front was 150kgs left and 201 right, a difference of 51kgs. The rear
was better at 20kgs difference. He adjusted this out to 8kgs front and 9kgs
rear. This resulted in a ride height if 110/112 front empty, which evened
out with driver in, and 116/116 rear.

Total weight with empty boot and half tank of fuel was 764kgs, so compared
to Craig’s identical car, the Honda conversion would seem to add about
22kgs.

Front and rear camber was fairly conservative with 0.3deg difference side to
side, so we adjusted to -1.3degF and -2.4degR.

Toe was not too far out front, and was set at 0.3mm out overall.

Rear toe was way out, 2.0mm toe in on the left, but 1.0mm toe out on the
right, a difference of 3mm. This was adjusted to 2.0mm toe in on each side.

He has caster scales, so he measured it at 3.7degs, which is in the middle
of the Lotus spec of 3.6 to 4.0.

We then went out for a run, and the difference in the handling and overall
feel once upto speed was very apparent. Straight line stability was better,
turn in was nicer, and the back end twitchiness and feeling of early
breakaway was improved. However I definitely need to fit a new steering
rack, this one is rather tired.

So at least I now know that any failings on the track are down to the driver
or the tyres, and at least with the tyres I can do something about it. The
driver is probably beyond redemption.

Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 3:04 pm
by Shug
I'm really tempted to do this asap - the pain being that I'm not sure when I've got a bloody free day between now and EF - I've got a nasty feeling it's my next full day off!

Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 5:58 pm
by GregR
how much should it cost for a good Geo sesh? Quite fancy getting this done depending on the reddies I have to part with to do so!

Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:06 pm
by Gareth
I think £70-£100

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 9:41 am
by mac
Mark does it for £80 (more if you want him to play around with bump steer)

I can second everything that Tut says - In fact I felt more than a little guilty only handing over 80notes at the end of it.

He does everything to the n th degree, checking and double checking. Not only that he can explain what he's doing and how it affects the car.

The set up is entirely in your hands - he'll go as wild or mild as you wish and explain to you what will happen if you go too wild.

I settled for 1.1 front and 2.2 rear camber, 1mm toe in on each front and I think 2 or 3 mm on the rears.

Corner weighting is also done and adjusted (if you have adjustable platform springs)


Just a young guy working out of his garage, but he know what he's doing.



Mac

Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 2:08 pm
by caleebra
Geo in Banchory?! Cool!

What other options are there? Who's the chap that Brunty recommends again?

I want to get the VX done but it would be good to get some guidance on the settings. I dont even know what the factory settings are for my car :oops:

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 6:47 pm
by simon
Anyone got his contact details?

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:17 pm
by mac
Simon,

PM me your mobile number and I'll forward his details once I get done in the garage



Cheers


Mac

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:23 pm
by Lawrence
markATracing.plus.com

Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:36 pm
by Rich H
I'm badly in need of a geo.

Does mark do this for a living or is he doing this at mates rates?

Are the 340R dry settings any good? Or somehting a little less agressive for road use?

Any thoughts?

RIch :?

Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:06 pm
by alicrozier
Mark does it for a living but the rate is good (general competition car stuff, not just geo). :)

I think there are 340R settings for road and track???
Either would be fine I think for what you're after - both less aggressive than Gordons settings. :D

Cheers,
Ali

Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:27 am
by Shug
Not so... The 340R dry track settings give you -1.8 front camber....

Rich, I'd really give Gordon's settings a try - bit twitchy on bumpy roads, but generally excellent.

Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:03 pm
by alicrozier
Shug wrote:Not so... The 340R dry track settings give you -1.8 front camber....

Rich, I'd really give Gordon's settings a try - bit twitchy on bumpy roads, but generally excellent.
Whoops! didn't think it was as much as that. :shock:

Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 3:31 pm
by Rich H
Done this morning, as everyone says, he knows his stuff and he is more than happy to chat about what he is doing and offer his thoughs. Really thorough and very meticulous.

In the end I settled for

Camber -.9 F -2.1R
Toe out 'a bit' front, in 2mm R

Feels fantastic. Nice and sharp turn in and loads of confidence into corners.

Cheers Mark keep up the good work!

Oh and I left those new shims in the car :oops: if anyone needs any rear shims I have 2 pairs thin and 2 pairs thick.

Rich 8)

Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:03 pm
by Rich H
Forgot to add, Cairn o Mount was horrible, no traffic and the sun was out.
<BG>
You wouldn't have enjoyed it at all, I wish I had been at work too
:liar