Where for a new K series
Re: Where for a new K series
I'd just drain it down, it'll not get properly hot without working hard.
You will need to flush it after rebuild and after run in anyway.
You will need to flush it after rebuild and after run in anyway.
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers
Re: Where for a new K series
Thanks, should make it a bit less of a mess when I open things up.Rich H wrote:I'd just drain it down, it'll not get properly hot without working hard.
You will need to flush it after rebuild and after run in anyway.
Re: Where for a new K series
Finally the work has started, although I managed to screw my back up on my mountain bike a few weeks ago which delayed things a wee bit. See pic with rear clam storage system, fortunately work re-started yesterday, hopefully have the engine in enough bits to know which parts to order within the next week or so.
Re: Where for a new K series
And so it begins.....
I like your storage of the clam
Stu
I like your storage of the clam

Stu
S1 S160
Caterham 310R
Caterham 310R
Re: Where for a new K series
Did you remove clam by jacking car to roof, attaching cable ties and then side-swiping the jack? 
Just remember where all the wee bolts came from, and while you have it bits take a good look at all the fixings for heatshields, exhaust mounts, undertrays, clam, etc. Anything knackered will be easiest to change when the engine and exhaust are is out of the way.
Cheers,
Robin

Just remember where all the wee bolts came from, and while you have it bits take a good look at all the fixings for heatshields, exhaust mounts, undertrays, clam, etc. Anything knackered will be easiest to change when the engine and exhaust are is out of the way.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Re: Where for a new K series
Stu160 wrote:
I like your storage of the clam
Stu


Re: Where for a new K series
Lots of pics and a few notes, so hopefully remember where most bits go, but there could still be a few where do these go questionsrobin wrote:Did you remove clam by jacking car to roof, attaching cable ties and then side-swiping the jack?
Just remember where all the wee bolts came from, and while you have it bits take a good look at all the fixings for heatshields, exhaust mounts, undertrays, clam, etc. Anything knackered will be easiest to change when the engine and exhaust are is out of the way.
Cheers,
Robin

The more I look, the more I think needs replacing, but you're right, it will be the obvious time to do everything, probably do some of the suspension and bearings aswell, could be a long job, just hope I'm home for a while.
Re: Where for a new K series
As soon as I thought about it, it seemed like the obvious solution, although due to mtb stuff, even the hanging space is a bit limited, but it's just about okay as long as I don't get any more stuffStu160 wrote:And so it begins.....
I like your storage of the clam
Stu

Re: Where for a new K series
I'm now getting close to ordering parts to start the re-build, a couple of quick questions to start with for those who stuff,
1. Should I get a new and lower temp thermostat, I don't know exactly what the current one is, however it's never been changed since new and from watching the temp gauge I would guess it is 88 deg C.
2. I plan to replace all of the coolant hoses, should I go for standard or the Silicone ones.
Cheers
Giles
1. Should I get a new and lower temp thermostat, I don't know exactly what the current one is, however it's never been changed since new and from watching the temp gauge I would guess it is 88 deg C.
2. I plan to replace all of the coolant hoses, should I go for standard or the Silicone ones.
Cheers
Giles
Re: Where for a new K series
Here we go...
I put a std stat in when UJI's head was off years back. It had a little flow-hole in the collar but otherwise was an 88 deg or whatever. not an 82 (which I think is the lower one?). However some say that a PRT setup is worth installing (this is the remote type thing which makes better equalisation of water temps from one of the head to another, I believe - KingK or Robin can provide more info I'm sure).
On hoses...I'd price up std ones vs silicone. Unless silicone are cheaper, I'd be sticking std ones in, based on the usage your car gets. But what do I know...
I put a std stat in when UJI's head was off years back. It had a little flow-hole in the collar but otherwise was an 88 deg or whatever. not an 82 (which I think is the lower one?). However some say that a PRT setup is worth installing (this is the remote type thing which makes better equalisation of water temps from one of the head to another, I believe - KingK or Robin can provide more info I'm sure).
On hoses...I'd price up std ones vs silicone. Unless silicone are cheaper, I'd be sticking std ones in, based on the usage your car gets. But what do I know...
http://www.rathmhor.com | Coaching, training, consultancy
Re: Where for a new K series
Silicone hoses are a waste of time and just make the car look modified when it isn't.
PRT is up to you but I think on balance it's better than the ingress stat.
Note that I think you should expect to see temperature fluctuations as a result of the PRT - both in terms of nominal running temperature and also dynamic fluctuations whilst going on/off throttle. So at first glance that would be worse than the existing stat. Where the PRT wins is that it prevents sharp temperature fluctuations - these are masked out by the averaging in the gauge display. Of course it might not actually achieve this goal at all either in general or specifically on your car. Here's a good page on it:
http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm
Here is some excellent data:
http://www.mgfmavhh.ukf.net/
I don't read the PRT as being as clear cut better from the data, but it is certainly no worse and in some cases it is obviously better ...
Cheers,
Robin
PRT is up to you but I think on balance it's better than the ingress stat.
Note that I think you should expect to see temperature fluctuations as a result of the PRT - both in terms of nominal running temperature and also dynamic fluctuations whilst going on/off throttle. So at first glance that would be worse than the existing stat. Where the PRT wins is that it prevents sharp temperature fluctuations - these are masked out by the averaging in the gauge display. Of course it might not actually achieve this goal at all either in general or specifically on your car. Here's a good page on it:
http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm
Here is some excellent data:
http://www.mgfmavhh.ukf.net/
I don't read the PRT as being as clear cut better from the data, but it is certainly no worse and in some cases it is obviously better ...
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Re: Where for a new K series
Thanks for that, I'll have a read through the links about the PRT, and good to know the slicone hoses aren't really required, I don't really want my engine to look like a max power boy's corsa engine bay.
Re: Where for a new K series
I think you can get black ones too. But they are still shiny I guess 

http://www.rathmhor.com | Coaching, training, consultancy
Re: Where for a new K series
I stay with dull black, I don't want anybody getting an ideas about possible engine modscampbell wrote:I think you can get black ones too. But they are still shiny I guess

Re: Where for a new K series
The elise parts PRT kit comes with the required replacement hoses (the layout is slightly different) in silicone anyway.