Engine builders question

[Shug]

Yup - Bernard does a super-deep airbox and the different length trumpets as well, so if you were going to him for the airbox anyway, it'd make sense. Steve Butts did this on his hillclimb car a few years ago and got good torque gains from the unequal trumpets (he suggested that it might be stopping cyls 2 & 3 robbing air charge from 1 & 4, along with distributing the bumps on the torque curve unevenly across cylinders, making the curve fuller and smoother) Nobody publishes the actual best lengths though AFAIK - bit of a guarded secret & something to fine-tune on the dyno if you have time.

[Rich H]

[Mikie711]

Recon it will be the short read cheaper airbox rather than the one that completely fills the boot space. So probably end up with 60 or 90mm trumpets depending what will fit. Any thoughts on the remote thermostat kits available. Quite like the Elise parts one also coz it's cheaper IIRC. Are they all the same or is there differences?

[robin]

It's horses for courses.

The standard thermostat obviously does a job that works for the majority of users.

The remote thermostats come in two flavours: old skool remote stats fitted to engine egress and new fangled PRTs fitted to the ingress.

Standard stat is on the ingress, but it's believed by many to be unstable under transient load conditions and this can lead to rapid changes in the temperature gradient across the engine and this isn't good (it's often blamed for HGF, especially in conjunction with the plastic head dowels).

Elise parts remote stat (assuming they are not now selling a PRT) fits on the egress. If you believe that the standard stat is potentially unstable in the face of load transients, you will agree that any egress-based stat is just as unstable.

The PRT is a stat that lives on the ingress but is more stable - that's not to say that you won't see fluctuations on the dash board, but the range isn't as wide as it is with standard stat, and the high speed transients that you wouldn't have seen in the first place are also moderated.

So, I believe that if you've decided to change the stat, the only sensible thing to change to is the PRT.

Cheers
Robin

[mckeann]

Personally wouldnt get the eliseparts 'upgraded' one. The temperature was just as unstable as before.

[Mikie711]

Both elise parts and PTP do the PRRT kit as well as remote 'stats. Think it will be this one from PTP as they are £30 cheaper

http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/285_239/l ... t__kit.htm

Just making sure it's the right "thing" IYSWIM

[Shug]

Oh, if only that was available when I did it. Spent hours hacking up Landrover pipework to fit at Macs. Not helped by the fact that it was the same place that the water/oil cooler wanted to live. Neither of which has saved my HG - however, it's been an elastomer failure, so probably not related...

[robin]

Shug, I take it that means the head is off ... which gasket did you use when you rebuilt it last time?

Cheers,
Robin

[Mikie711]

As mentioned earlier Dave Andrews recons that the new Payen double pinned gasket is the one to use. Part number is BW750. Have a few different ones here will take some pictures so you can see the difference, if any, between them.
I've just looked at the Lotus A111E6103S gasket I have and the Payen BW750 and I will be bu88ered if I can spot the difference. Could be that they are both the new and improved type. So I now have 3 identical head gaskets. Lotus, Payen and Elise Parts . So if anybody is looking for one give me a shout.

[Shug]

Shug, I take it that means the head is off ... which gasket did you use when you rebuilt it last time?

Cheers,
Robin

Robin,

That engine was on the original gasket. My other one never had a gasket failure (it had head porosity, then liner failure) I've gone with Ali's recommendation of the all-steel gasket. We'll see how that does.

[hiscot]

mike what rpm are you aiming for / expecting ?
valve spec 214n ? colsibro guides ? titanium retainers ? ( recomended to me as a must but dependent on cam choice ) check installed valve spring compression
steel pump gear a must ? alternator speed = race alt or pully change i believe they burn out at high revs
fuel pump will max at approx 220 bhp or much less if its worn ( external pump and swirl pot for sale on seloc ) TT use a external bosch inline as a helper
mg rover cam belt or gates is ok
hellix clutch/ flywheel is also a good choice ( i use a rover turbo on my present set up, clutchs are rated by torque then rpm if high should also be taken into consid )
traction and launch i have chickened out with mine because mine is ingition controlled and on a k i dont fancy using advance / retard to work it all
sensors oil fuel ect surprising quite expensive but well worth it imo , i am also using eti temp stickers to monitor engine heat intake charge heat ect
but i will have a lot of engine bay temps with the supercharger
oil cooler front air is the best but only with a inline temp thermostat or it will over cool
water / oil best for getting oil temps up
prt the best mod imo
I intend to try to get the best from all the above
i have a prt plumbed into a oil/water cooler and intend plumbing the front mount oil coolers into the same system loop with the water heat going to a high flow radtec radiator ,i am hoping the water/ oil exchange will bring the oil temp up quickly and act as a thermostat and temp stabiliser for the better front oil
coolers ( 2 on a tt engine )
oil crucial to get the right choice they are not all the same ( more so supercharged )
windage plate / baffle /dry sump ?

[robin]

Shug, I take it that means the head is off ... which gasket did you use when you rebuilt it last time?

Cheers,
Robin

Robin,

That engine was on the original gasket. My other one never had a gasket failure (it had head porosity, then liner failure) I've gone with Ali's recommendation of the all-steel gasket. We'll see how that does.

Ah - it was an engine transplant complete with head, gasket and block (and pending HGF it seems!).

Cheers,
Robin

[Shug]

To be fair, it's had at least 30K miles of my gentle persuasion, complete with TBs and my dodgy Emerald mapping - a lesser engine would have lasted a week

[Rich H]

But Shug, you are so mechanically sympathetic....

[Mikie711]

Bob,
probably limit the engine to around 8200rpm. The 1444 cams are supposed to give the best torque out of all the piper range across a wider band so we will see. Want to try and retain so sort of drivability rather than end up with a screamer.
I was thinking along the lines of using the standard fuel pump as a kind of lift pump for a high flow in line pump now I'm not sure if that will work. What about the FSE in tank high flow pumps, are they any good?.
I take it your installing the TT260 engine you have ?
Mike