Porky EFI

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:01 am

Got them, read them, got confused.

The basic setup is OK but when you add the Megasquirt and Spark it gets complicated as not all the stuff for te original will carry over.

First things frst though, I still need it to stop raining whenever I decide to finish it off! :Roll:

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:37 pm

More work carried out, would have got furhter but she took a day off so we could be together for the day... oh good

FPR is now the right way round

All the fuel plumbing is done and pressure tested with fuel (Sort of, not up to full 3 bar as the battery is near dead)
The brake servo pipe is attached (With a washing machine fitting

)
Crank breather fitted, run out of jubilee clips but it'll be ok...
Injector wiring installed
Temp senders calibrated (sort of)

More pics:
Overview:

Fuel Pressure Reg:

Fuel Rail:

BiggestNizzy · Post by **BiggestNizzy** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:54 pm

looking good, way over my head but I still like it

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:55 pm

Nah, tricky bit is when the elastic trickery gets turned on.
At the moment its all big lumps of metal.

Sanjøy · Post by **Sanjøy** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:42 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Got them, read them, got confused.

The basic setup is OK but when you add the Megasquirt and Spark it gets complicated as not all the stuff for te original will carry over.

First things frst though, I still need it to stop raining whenever I decide to finish it off! :Roll:

Oh cock, I am helpign in an Elan +2 build witha Zetec using a mega squirt and for some reason I am meant to be sorting the mega squirt out which is not the Geroge it you recall how long it took for me to get the headlight earthign issue sorted...

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:25 pm

I'll ask you when I get stuck then!!

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:08 am

Engine bay wiring is in!

The pigtail needs trimming to fit, but its finished too. Cunningly it plugs into the existing relay board where the old fuel pump relay used to go. Much easier than splicing in wiring!

All that remains on the hardware side is to introduce them to each other...

Then its time to learn the black art of "Getting a 30 year old Porka to run on DIY EFI when you have absolutely no idea what you are doing"

Rich

mac · Post by **mac** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:51 pm

try asking for some help on the Jock7 website (http://scottishsevens.proboards28.com/index.cgi?)

I think some of the LA 7 owners use the megasquirter for their ford engines.

Mac

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:24 am

Lazy this morning, was going to get some work done but lacking any sort of enthusiasm for cold weather

Got sent a complete EDIS setup (Ford ignition system) for free the other day! EDIS allegedly allows up to a 2mm plug gap

It is also a wasted spark system

:D

So that is being fitted now... 2 steps forward 3 back..

Plan is that I get the EDIS coil pack mount off a mondeo scrapper (and the plug leads!) and some more wire from mapins, I'll then mount the lot and work out if I'm going to wire it all up in one go.

Current thinking is this:

EDIS is clever. Very clever. If the MS signal fails it goes into limp home mode, and sets the timing to 10 degrees. So in theory at least it should be straight forward to get it to give a good idle spark timing. Means I can get the spark side running without the Megasquirt even on!

Clever eh?

Then I can worry about the fuel later....

Off to work

_________________

robin · Post by **robin** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:45 pm

Wasted spark requires the ECU to know which pistons are at TDC and which are at BDC so as to fire either 1&4 or 2&3 - this will only work if your crank position sensor is a multi-tooth type with TDC signature rather than just a TDC pulse.

Assuming the car was already electronic ignition this shouldn't be a problem; in the old days you would divide crank speed by two at the camshaft, then multiply by four using the lobes in the dizzy to get 2 sparks per revolution.

Electronic points conversions couldn't easily then drive wasted spark because the dizzy system doesn't let you know which piston is up and which piston is down, IYSWIM.

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 3:52 pm

Cheers Robin but worry not!

The EDIS kit included a 36-1 toothed wheel and adapter, it has bolted snugly to the cranksaft pulley

EDIS does all the complex stuff from the 36-1 wheel the MS then talks to that and modifies its timing only. In addition you get the fixed 10 degree limp mode too.

So its a pretty good solution, it was just too expensive for me. Fortunaly a kindly soul on the '24 boards sent it to me FOC as his project stalled in a terminal fasion!!

I'll take a piccy when I next get a chance!

TTFN
Rich

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:48 pm

More progress!! But this time its significant!

The pig tail is wired into the car!

After checking everything several times, then checking again, I had a short to earth (Annoying!) which turns out to be the O2 sensor heater, its not a direct short but it has a very low resistance. Dunno if its right, so I have disconnected it for now.

Unplugged the fuel pump relay...
Fitted the battery...
Plugged in the laptop...
Plugged in the EDIS...
Plugged in the MS...
Wiggled the relay a bit...
We have life!

The MS is reading from the IAT and coolant senders

First step done!

I figured I'd come this far so decided to crank...
At this point the coil pack isn't in (Details, details

) so I turned it over...

The MS is reading the crank RPM as around 200 RPM!!

:D:D

So I stopped playing (Boo

) and fitted the coil pack to the OS wing. First location was better (Neater) by the throttle calb eand clutch cable outs on the bulkhead, pack fits in nicely. Sadly there wasn't enough rom for all the plug wires... B#LL#CKS!

2 more holes in the car that weren't needed...

Its dark now, but all that is left (I think) is solder the extension into the coil wiring and fit the plug wires (When they turn up) I can then check the spark timing and then its time for a start...

Oh and the wiring needs tidying. Alot!

Pics

hiscot · Post by **hiscot** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:00 pm

Rich
if you will need the o2 heater connected
and if you are using a lc1 be very carefull how its wired, its very easy to blow the controller make sure the lc1 is earthed properly too
leave the free air callibration button off as its very easy to knock and force an unwanted callibration with the lamda still in the exhaust
either use the wires then tape up or if fitting the switch fit a length of hose over so you have to shove a probe down

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:14 pm

Its a second hand narrow band, possibly a fecked second hand narrow band

LC1 and controller is on the shopping list....

robin · Post by **robin** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:07 pm

When cold the heater will have a very low resistance - what's it measuring?

I would expect something in the order of 5-10ohms when cold; as soon as you start to pass the 2A = 24W through it then it will start to get hot and the resistance will increase and the current will decrease; then the exhaust keeps it hot and the current is reduced to a trickle anyway. It's all self managing.

So measure the resistance - if it's about 5ohms that's right.

How is the heater wire driven - I assume it's via a relay and fuse rather than just commoned up to all the other +12 circuitry?

Cheers,
Robin