Porky EFI

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:40 pm

Well GSF have pulled a blinder. Ordered 2 discs and a set of pads at 2 pm yesterday paid an extra £12 for next day delivery and they turned up at 11 this morning!!

Forgot to get new bearings so had to knock the old ones out (Note to self: change front wheel bearings) of the old disks, came out after a brief fight involving a flame thrower... The old discs are totally shot if I'm honest. Supposed to be 12mm mine are more like 8mm and the pads (Pagids as it happens!) are wedge shaped from the rotten bits of disc...

The repeater bulbs were pretty dim, but only because they weren't pushed in to the holders properly and the fog lamp was just because the lens and reflecter were filthy, quick attack with some soapy water and an old toothbrush and its back.

Going to get a couple of wipers in a bit and my retest is tomorrow am! Fingers crossed they will just change the tyres and pass it!!

Got an advisory for an exhaust leak too.

Rich

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:50 pm

We have a pass!!

Now on with the tuning....

I'm going to try and use the Autotune facility, so I need a target AFR table. Am I right in thinking that I'm looking for slightly rich at idle, lean at mid range under vacuum (Cruise) and then rich at WOT?
ta
Rich

2F45T4U · Post by **2F45T4U** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:52 am

congratulations!!
about 12.5 to 13.1 ish all engines are different but most make power a fair bit richer than 14.7:1

youl get a feel for it your self when you start tuning by the seat of your pants

the exhaust leak you mentioned, is it down stream of your lambda probe? as if its upstream itl give you a load of crap on your wideband

Fraser

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:25 am

Rich,

My advice would be to aim to get the VE table setup to run the engine slightly rich across the whole rev/load range first. Then use the target AFR/closed loop operation to run it slightly lean at idle and under part throttle mid range.

That way the fall back position in case of O2 sensor failure will be safe operation.

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:53 am

Zorst leak is just ahead of the lambda so need to fix that. Got an ignition map from another 924 and its a fair bit more advanced than I had, I'll try that see if idle settles a bit more.

Cheers
Rich

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 11:01 am

Zorst leak fixed (Loose clamp) and an almost flawless run back to my parents! 2 hours of motorway including an hour stuck in traffic as well as 80+ tuts on occasions.

Idle is still a little uneven and I'm getting a little bit of kangarooing at low revs (Fecked drivetrain doesn't help, there is loads of backlash in the drive shafts) but I don't think the idle area on the map is particually good. The spark table I'm using is suprisingly advanced... But no pinging or detonation I can hear. Its at about 20 deg at idle, but runs really well. Going to revisit it (Its supposed to be 10 degress by default) I'll wind it back in a bit and see if that helps with idle power.

I also need to fit a TPS somehow. Snap throttle causes it to stumble but AE is on MAP only at the moment so I would expect that really. I got a nice big induction backfire last night too while "Giving it the beans" on and off throttle quickly at 4k rpm. I think that the MAP AE boosted the fuel just as I shut the throttle then again as I opened it again it went pop. I do have a massive Audi Coupe throttle but its so big I'll need to grind a chunk out of the inlet manifold so the butterfly will open fully, that has a TPS but it doen't quite fit in. An elise TPS will fit the spindle but will require modding to fit it. I'm going to have a look at the Accel pedal end, see if I can fit a TPS in there somewhere, might be easier...

Also got one of the 924 owners club guys sending me a voltmeter to use as an AFR meter. I'll either butcher it see if I can get it to work 0-5V or more likely I'll gut it and use the case and face for my LED AFR meter. I have built one as I'm a tight git and I refuse to pay upwards of £50 for something I can build for £5 (OK it not so well packaged) a little IC, 10 LEDs and a couple of resistors and I have an AFR meter. I would prefer the analogue version if possible as its more in fitting and less Chav/Ned but I'm not fussy. I'll stick in place of the clock, it'll fit nicely in between the Oil P gauge and the voltmeter.

Off to play with Idle and then get it in the garage for some bodywork repairs.

Rich
/bored at parents faction

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:28 pm

Never got round to the bodywork it was raining, decided that as I was out I would buy a cambelt and change that. £7 and it only takes 20 mins

Also got my tacho back, sometimes... It works intermittantly while driving about but if its not working and I indicate it pops into life for some reason, goes up and down in time with the flasher unit...

I have changed the fuelling from 2 simultanious squirts per cycle to 4 alternating squirts (1+3 and 2+4) seems to have calmed the idle. I have also wound it back down to a more reasonable 16 degrees BTDC ign timing. Its idling at around 950 now, much better. Got a whistle form the second butterfly though and its driving me nuts!

Think I need a wheel bearing now though... its beginning to howl

Just nipped it up for the time being (Taper rollers).

Body work tomorrow... when I'm bored after lunch.

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:43 pm

Fixed the coolant and inlet temp senders, they are now reading correctly. Also fixed the temp gauge on the dash, I had swapped the senders over when I rebuilt the head, but they are different values it would appear now the temp gauge reads sensibly.

Problem is now that the inlet temp is fixed the map is out of kilter (It allows for air density colder air = denser = more fuel!) won't take much to sort.

Still need to tidy the wiring under the glove box but mostly its all done!

Well apart form the wheel bearing (Got a new one here, but its been cold and wet outside!) and the CV joints all being knackered...

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:34 pm

Update:

Its runnning well and I'm slowly getting the map sorted by datalogging and analysis of the logs. Looks like I'm nearly there!

Done the wheel bearing now I can hear the other one needs doing now too... Another £9....

Averaging about 35 MPG on the M-way too, not bad for a 1980 8v 2L van engine!

Coolant temp is still a bit wonky but not far out, IAT is close enough.

Off to the Autosport show tomorrow so I'm looking for a decent metal diaphram FPR to replace the crap ebay effort, which will undoubtedlythrow the map off agian, but nevermind!

Rich

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:50 pm

Rich - I ordered a complete V3.0+MS2+error* board kit from Bill Shurvington. I discussed the rover K trigger wheel pattern on the list and james has implemented some beta code for testing against it - so when I get my kit built, we can perhaps get the Elise's running off them

Can you live map - i.e. adjust a fuel or ignition cell while the engine is running?

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:44 pm

Yes you can. 2 options, you can manually map as you go on a 3d rep of the map or you can automap and get it to chase an AFR.

It was the trigger wheel that I couldn't work out on the K as its weird.

using datalogs and mega log viewer is easy too, no need for a co-pilot!

I have MS1 not MS2, MS2 is alot more advanced from what I have seen... Have you got a stim and relay board too? Probably don't need the relay board but the stim kit would be good. My lashup is a bit ropey!

The biggest problem I have had is getting the non-GM senders calibrated, MS2 can do this on the fly, much easier than MS1.

Building the board was easy, even for me! Enjoy!

Let me know how oyu get on, could be a cheap alternative to Emerald

robin · Post by **robin** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:37 am

I wanted a JimStim but out-of-stock - Bill's going to ping me when they arrive.

I'll be running the MS2/extra code.

I won't need a relay board - the MFRU has all the relays you need and with the error* board (what a ridiculous name!) there are sufficient outputs to drive all the relays (and in theory the evap solenoid and the exhaust flap solenoid).

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:51 am

Not come across the error* board, I'll look it up. The extra code has so many features on MS1 that I'm never going to use, Launch control, traction ocntrol, NOS, water injection, multi-fuel and spark tables, and loads of other stuff I don't understand. Add that to your programming skills and you will have huge potential!

If I can make a 1980's car run on it then you must be able to make an Elise fly...

Why did you go for MS2 over MS1? With me it was cost (pikey!) If you can get the trigger sorted will it work on both processors?

Is there potential for a plug in loom? Are the MEMS inputs something you can use?

Rich

robin · Post by **robin** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 1:41 pm

The error* board adds a pair of VR sensor inputs (wheel speed, cam position OR cam position, crank position - take your pick). It also has a bunch of extra outputs and some extra inputs, both digital and analog to allow for extra sensors.

The MS2 is written in C and has flexible wheel trigger code (which has now been modded to allow for the non-VVC flywheel pattern).

The MS1 is written in assembler and is much harder to modify - the majority of new developments will start on MS2; only the really cool stuff will get re-written in assembler for MS1. As a lot of users are running either primitive engines or V8's, there's a fair chance that some features useful for K-series owners will never make it to MS1.

I don't know if the wheel trigger code is actively back-ported/translated to MS1 - I doubt it.

MS2 also supports bi-polar IACV steppers (which the EU3 engines have) while MS1 doesn't support direct drive steppers at all.

For prototyping purposes I will make a DB35 to MEMS-loom adapter using a spare MEMS connector I have. I also have the K4 (Lotus non-mems EU3 ECU) connector, so I can make a loom for that too.

For MEMS/EU2 support I'll need to figure out whether I can use the spare channels to drive the uni-polar IACV or whether I'll need to add a PWM->uni-polar adapter.

All the sensors will "just work", subject to calibration.

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:02 pm

Got a bit lost in the middle of that, but I think I understand: MS2 is easier to code

Explains why MS2 has built in calibration and MS1 I have to mince about with compiling things.

Sounds like a nice project! Also there will be alot of interst in a cheaper ECU than emerald. Especially an open source one like MS for the tinkering pikeys among us....

As for the Porker, its running fine, the tune is settling down and (Now I have replaced both rear shocks and a wheel bearing) its an excellent parts chaser and motorway cruiser

Just the bodywork to finish tidying up before I take it to bits again when I find a 5 pot Coupe lump to stick in it
<BG>

Rich