Next stupid question ...

robin · Post by **robin** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:45 am

What kind of paint is good for marking metal (cylinder head bolts, pulleys, etc.) - should I just buy some generic white touch up paint or is there something better that's worth tracking down?

(I'll ask the same question in the upper house, so feel free to answer there if you are on both).

Cheers,
Robin

roadboy · Post by **roadboy** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:34 pm

A white touch up stick will be fine.

Dan@JPS

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:08 pm

I used tippex

roadboy · Post by **roadboy** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:19 pm

Tippex comes off too easily.

Dan@JPS

robin · Post by **robin** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:18 pm

Job done. I hate doing up the head bolts ...

Robin

tut · Post by **tut** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 6:01 pm

Torque them up in the correct sequence, or am I missing something?

tut

roadboy · Post by **roadboy** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 6:19 pm

Tut,

You have to mark the radial marks after torquing them up and when you do the 180 degree turns after torquing you have to line up the radial marks. This is to make sure they have stretched correctly.

Dan@JPS

robin · Post by **robin** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:13 pm

I cheat and mark the bolts and head rather than use the radial marks - that way you can mark the same spot on the bolt and head for each position - if you use the radial marks, some of them always end up in the cutout under the cam lobes and then there is no easy way to mark them half accurately.

Cheers,
Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:46 pm

Use a soft pencil and mark them when you have applied the 20Nm or what ever... Even 2 chimps and an orangutang could work it out... Thew collies weren't far behind...

Go on then what were your liner heights then? Mine were: some, a bit, a about the same and another bit.

Figured that some was better than nout and I could do f'all about them anyway. (About 4 thou or so each if your going to be picky!)

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 1:16 am

They weren't even - the middle had more than the outside, or was it the other way around?

My technique was to lay a new metal ruler over the liners, edge up and then use some new feeler gauges to see what I could squeeze under without lifting the ruler (also tested it the other way - feeler blade in, pressure on ruler, see if the blade will come out).

Anyway, the worst one was >0.06mm <0.08mm (I don't have a 0.07mm blade) which I make between 2 and 3 thou in old money.

Just put the whole thing back together and refilled coolant and oil. For now I have fitted the standard pulleys.

Piper site has 2.23mm in and 1.98mm ex lift at TDC for 285H. Using the standard pulleys I get 2.0 and 1.9 +/- a couple of hundredths. Given that I estimate the ramp to be about 0.12mm/crank-degree that means that with the standard pulleys the inlet is about 2 degrees retarded and the exhaust is about 1 degree advanced. That turns out to be nice and safe.

DVA lists 3.00mm and 2.54mm on his site for the same cams, so once I have run them like this for a while I might well go back and fit the verniers and time them in closer to DVA's figures.

Decided to leave it until tomorrow morning before I start the engine - if it goes bang tomorrow I have the whole day to cry. If it goes bang tonight I won't get any sleep.

Fingers crossed!

Robin

Rich H · Post by **Rich H** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:59 am

Good luck! It was nerve wracking to say the least when I started mine! 2000rpm for 10 mins doesn't help either! (To run in the cams

)