Does anyone have any info/tips on how to replace the solid brake lines that run from the front to rear of an S1, I have the undertrays off, but don't know where/how the lines are routed.
There is a bit of external corrosion near the rear wishbones, is this common?
Cheers Doug
Brake Lines
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thesurfbus
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:06 am
- Location: Midlothian
Brake Lines
Lotus Elise 220 S
Re: Brake Lines
I believe the fuel tank has to be removed. Also hear more reports of rear lines being replaced due to corrosion.
Re: Brake Lines
It is a tank out job unfortunately, though I just replaced mine a couple weeks ago and taking the tank out wasn't as bad a job as I thought it would be.
The jubilee clips on the filler pipe was the worst part.
Mine had looked in need of it where they are visible, though they were just as, if not more corroded behind the tank so they would definitely be worth getting replaced.
Have a check of the front pipe running across behind the radiator as well. It can get bad around the clips too.
The jubilee clips on the filler pipe was the worst part.
Mine had looked in need of it where they are visible, though they were just as, if not more corroded behind the tank so they would definitely be worth getting replaced.
Have a check of the front pipe running across behind the radiator as well. It can get bad around the clips too.
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thesurfbus
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:06 am
- Location: Midlothian
Re: Brake Lines
Thanks for the replies, looks like I will wait until next winter, when I refurb the rear suspension.
Doug
Doug
Lotus Elise 220 S
Re: Brake Lines
i have just finished this job about an hour ago. it's pretty grim.
For the last 2 MOTs ive got by with cleaning up the lines with a wire brush, but this year i didnt want to take the p1ss and they had to be changed.
I set about it yesterday lunchtime thinking it would be pretty straight forward....
Start by trying to free the brake nipples off the calipers first! if you wait until the end of the job and they shear, it's a show stopper. If you do this first you have a chance to do something about it like ordering a spare caliper, digging out your tap set and new nipples, or driving somewhere for a box of tissues to dry your tears...whatever helps.
Then try and slacken the fittings which joint the steel line to the rubber hoses (13mm spanner). Just a 1/4 turn will do, enough to let you know they will come off. As above, if you have to do something mental like cut the hoses, you have a chance to buy some new ones in the mean time.....i should have had some braided lines to fit at this point, i didnt, so once i get them i will have to bleed the brakes AGAIN....give this some thought if you havent already as its a perfect time to fit them.
I quickly realised the tank had to come out, (it had 32l in it obviously..sothat was a good start...)
drained it,
removed ground tray
unclipped H/brake and throttle cables and pull them low, mark the location of the selector cables and remove them too. The 'P' clip for the throttle cable is held to the sump with an M8 bolt...mine sheared, but luckily there is a blind M8 hole right beside it which is useable once tidied up with a tap. remember the routing of the throttle cable. If you do, let me know what it is..
Removed shear panel
Started to remove the passenger seat, but one of the dome head cap screws galled up and rounded i had to drill the head off it (cheers)...
Seat removed.
Pick up all your change/cufflinks/rings which has been hiding under there.
Inspection cover removed from the bulk head...well its called an inspection hatch but i dont know what you can inspect from it. It's tiny. I rooted about for nearly 30 mins trying to simultaneosly squeeze and pull the the fuel fittings off the pump unit followed by the sender/pump plug. I was pretty successful in slicing the back of my hand and removing most of my skin, but there are no prizes for that. Luckily the rage,frustration and adrenalin helped me persevere until they had both uncliped. The cable is wrapped round the top of the sender before its plugged in, but of course you cant see this until you start to lower the tank and its tugging on it (just a tip). This job was closely second (if not joined first) with the 5 jubilee clips on the filler and breather tubes. (use a 6mm socket and lots of WD40, dont even bother with a screwdriver.)
Try and twist the large filler pipe until it 'cracks' off the 2 steel tubes, if you wait until you have dropped the tank its a total pain as the clearence in the floor penetration and the tank nozzles is so small, it nips the pipe if its off-square making it a biatch to break it free. The rubber tube goes hard and plasticy and its a bugger to slide off the swaging on the nozzle as well. its no fun, but you get a lot of access from the drivers wheel arch.
tank dropped on a trolley jack.
The tank will likely be rusty, nothing serious but i wouldnt like to see a 30 year old tank if had never been treated with some sort of love and attention. I wire brushed mine and painted it with waxoyl since i probably wont need to go back in there for a long time. I could have painted it, but didnt have time to prep, paint and let it dry, before i stuck it back on.
The rest of it is straight forward, i tried to remove the old lines so i had some shape to make up some new ones but they are so stiff you cant unthread them from the wishbones without bending them anyway. Once i made up the copper/CuNi lines and bent them all lovely, they were so soft that they looked crap by the time i threaded back into position. Next time i would just start at the 'T' piece and hand bend them along the route up to the hose. I was able to re-use my old fittings after cutting the pipe. They were fine. The inboard/male fittings were like new.
To undo the fittings at the 'T' piece, use an 11mm brake spanner as theyre pretty tight, but you will have to slacken the 6mm bolt a couple of turns on the top of the T which holds it down (so you can hook your brake spanner under it)
I thought i had the back end jacked up higher than the resevoir...obviously not though, as over the duration of a cup of tea the contents slowly emptied under the floor...somewhere... ah well. I could have emptied it before hand but i didnt want to have to mess around with the front brakes. Next time i will empty it first.
Box up in the reverse of removal. I had to soak my large fuel pipe in a basin of boiling water to get it to soften enough to get back on. A smear of grease on the inside let me shove it right up the filler spout, stick the tank up and bolt it in, then twist and pull the hose down onto the tank, REMEMBER TO SLIDE THE 4 JUBILEE CLIPS ON FIRST!! or you will get mad!!
Gunson Easibleed FTW.
I'm away back out to try and get this sheared seat bolt out the floor....
Hope this helps.
Fraser
For the last 2 MOTs ive got by with cleaning up the lines with a wire brush, but this year i didnt want to take the p1ss and they had to be changed.
I set about it yesterday lunchtime thinking it would be pretty straight forward....
Start by trying to free the brake nipples off the calipers first! if you wait until the end of the job and they shear, it's a show stopper. If you do this first you have a chance to do something about it like ordering a spare caliper, digging out your tap set and new nipples, or driving somewhere for a box of tissues to dry your tears...whatever helps.
Then try and slacken the fittings which joint the steel line to the rubber hoses (13mm spanner). Just a 1/4 turn will do, enough to let you know they will come off. As above, if you have to do something mental like cut the hoses, you have a chance to buy some new ones in the mean time.....i should have had some braided lines to fit at this point, i didnt, so once i get them i will have to bleed the brakes AGAIN....give this some thought if you havent already as its a perfect time to fit them.
I quickly realised the tank had to come out, (it had 32l in it obviously..sothat was a good start...)
drained it,
removed ground tray
unclipped H/brake and throttle cables and pull them low, mark the location of the selector cables and remove them too. The 'P' clip for the throttle cable is held to the sump with an M8 bolt...mine sheared, but luckily there is a blind M8 hole right beside it which is useable once tidied up with a tap. remember the routing of the throttle cable. If you do, let me know what it is..
Removed shear panel
Started to remove the passenger seat, but one of the dome head cap screws galled up and rounded i had to drill the head off it (cheers)...
Seat removed.
Pick up all your change/cufflinks/rings which has been hiding under there.
Inspection cover removed from the bulk head...well its called an inspection hatch but i dont know what you can inspect from it. It's tiny. I rooted about for nearly 30 mins trying to simultaneosly squeeze and pull the the fuel fittings off the pump unit followed by the sender/pump plug. I was pretty successful in slicing the back of my hand and removing most of my skin, but there are no prizes for that. Luckily the rage,frustration and adrenalin helped me persevere until they had both uncliped. The cable is wrapped round the top of the sender before its plugged in, but of course you cant see this until you start to lower the tank and its tugging on it (just a tip). This job was closely second (if not joined first) with the 5 jubilee clips on the filler and breather tubes. (use a 6mm socket and lots of WD40, dont even bother with a screwdriver.)
Try and twist the large filler pipe until it 'cracks' off the 2 steel tubes, if you wait until you have dropped the tank its a total pain as the clearence in the floor penetration and the tank nozzles is so small, it nips the pipe if its off-square making it a biatch to break it free. The rubber tube goes hard and plasticy and its a bugger to slide off the swaging on the nozzle as well. its no fun, but you get a lot of access from the drivers wheel arch.
tank dropped on a trolley jack.
The tank will likely be rusty, nothing serious but i wouldnt like to see a 30 year old tank if had never been treated with some sort of love and attention. I wire brushed mine and painted it with waxoyl since i probably wont need to go back in there for a long time. I could have painted it, but didnt have time to prep, paint and let it dry, before i stuck it back on.
The rest of it is straight forward, i tried to remove the old lines so i had some shape to make up some new ones but they are so stiff you cant unthread them from the wishbones without bending them anyway. Once i made up the copper/CuNi lines and bent them all lovely, they were so soft that they looked crap by the time i threaded back into position. Next time i would just start at the 'T' piece and hand bend them along the route up to the hose. I was able to re-use my old fittings after cutting the pipe. They were fine. The inboard/male fittings were like new.
To undo the fittings at the 'T' piece, use an 11mm brake spanner as theyre pretty tight, but you will have to slacken the 6mm bolt a couple of turns on the top of the T which holds it down (so you can hook your brake spanner under it)
I thought i had the back end jacked up higher than the resevoir...obviously not though, as over the duration of a cup of tea the contents slowly emptied under the floor...somewhere... ah well. I could have emptied it before hand but i didnt want to have to mess around with the front brakes. Next time i will empty it first.
Box up in the reverse of removal. I had to soak my large fuel pipe in a basin of boiling water to get it to soften enough to get back on. A smear of grease on the inside let me shove it right up the filler spout, stick the tank up and bolt it in, then twist and pull the hose down onto the tank, REMEMBER TO SLIDE THE 4 JUBILEE CLIPS ON FIRST!! or you will get mad!!
Gunson Easibleed FTW.
I'm away back out to try and get this sheared seat bolt out the floor....
Hope this helps.
Fraser
Re: Brake Lines
Top job! 
I know your in a lot if this for the fun of it so I won't upset you by telling you how incredibly reasonable Murrays were to do this on mine last year..
I know your in a lot if this for the fun of it so I won't upset you by telling you how incredibly reasonable Murrays were to do this on mine last year..
Re: Brake Lines
I'm massively humbled, Fraser!
I too entrusted that b'stard of a job to Team Moncrieff
I too entrusted that b'stard of a job to Team Moncrieff
http://www.rathmhor.com | Coaching, training, consultancy
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thesurfbus
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:06 am
- Location: Midlothian
Re: Brake Lines
Thanks for the insight, mine weren't in bad shape after all, so think I will hold off until the winter as desperate to get the car back on the road.
Lotus Elise 220 S
Re: Brake Lines
Good effort! Great tips! Thanks for sharing 