lambda sensor replacement(honda)

[Dipper]

ive had a standing MIL for ages now. the culprit is the melted wires of the lambda sensor. ive a few issues/queries though

1 - how the hell do i disconnect the lambda from the connector block? i can see the connector from under the car but it appears to be in a void and cant be reached from underneath or from above. ive tried pulling the wires to see if it'll come within reach but no joy!

2 - assuming i get it out, whats the best way to route the wiring to prevent it touching the exhaust again?

3 - i assume the sensor a honda part?

think thats all. although while i was at ive also noticed that the backbox has melted a hole through the boot and burned the carpet! any advice on heat shielding and how to attach it? OEM stuff or is there better options?

ta

[r10crw]

Its quite common to route the cable through the sub frame which is what it sounds like you have. If the sensors knackered Id just cut the wires then unscrew the sensor. Even if you dont want to cut the wires you should have enough slack to unscrew the sensor just by twisting the wire. Then just feed the sensor and cable back through until you expose the plug.
For the new one you need to be sure you get the correct one, EU/UK are narrowband but Jap engines use a wideband. Think Alan commented on this so maybe wait for him or search his posts?
As regards routing its up to you, if they are properly heat wrapped I wouldn't have thought through the subframe is not an issue.

[mikeyb13]

Million dollar Lamda question. Watching with interest
One of the wee jobs I may have to do on mine once I can move again.

As for the heat issues I was thinking about wrapping/coating the entire exhaust system, some of these thermal coating companies are surprisingly cheap. Would imagine it would decrease the temps not only the wiring but entire engine bay and boot are subjected to but increases in exhaust gas temps sure might increase failures of the sensor itself ?????
Wasn't sure about it though as I couldnt find anyone else trying it as a solution.

[Scuffers]

yes/no

wrapping the exhaust reduces the heat radiated, BUT, it still have to go somewhere, so what happens is the silencer will get fried - leading to no wadding left.

by all means wrap any bits that are specifically a problem, but remember your only moving that problem.

Lambda should be in a heat sleve from the plug to the sensor, so short of it touching the pipes somewhere, it should be fine.

Sensor Is a std Honda part, it's the primary Lambda from a Civic etc, use either Honda ones or genuine Denso/NTK ones, as some aftermarket ones have the wrong impedance heaters etc and can (read do!) kill the ECU's driver ccts.

Supercharged cars used a lot on track can reduce the life of the senders by cooking them, if your in that boat, use a lambda spacer like this:



this seems to solve the problem (although it does also slow the lambda down a little, so be aware at MOT time).

[mikeyb13]

Do you sell the spacer Scuffers? That looks a good solution. Should be fine for mot time

As for the heat issue it could always go out the back as flames

[tut]

I think the wide band sensor on my JDM engined car may be knackered Simon, so will get Craig to check it for me.

If so, apart from MOT's that I do not need to worry about, does it have any effect on the car's performance, or is it only for emission control at low rpm?

tut

[Scuffers]

Do you sell the spacer Scuffers? That looks a good solution. Should be fine for mot time

As for the heat issue it could always go out the back as flames

I have a version of it, yes - they are something like £25 a pop.

they should work just fine for the MOT, the only issue I have seen is that with the wideband senders they slow down the response and sometimes this is enough for them to over-shoot trim and miss the lambda 1 target by hunting around a bit, with narrowband (UK) senders, they are not a problem.

(I do have Senders on the shelf too, they are something like £90 a pop.)

I think the wide band sensor on my JDM engined car may be knackered Simon, so will get Craig to check it for me.

If so, apart from MOT's that I do not need to worry about, does it have any effect on the car's performance, or is it only for emission control at low rpm?

tut

assuming it's failed, then no, engine just runs open loop (that said I have no idea how good the map you have is so it could be terrible?)

the issues come when it's failing but not enough for the ECU to fail it, you can then get some interesting stuff going on with it trimming to the ECU limits then jumping back...

[Dipper]

cheers for the replies. car is now more in bits than id hoped for the time of year. suspension is off also as im waiting on my new nitron 46mm ntr's to come in:)

! took the exhaust off which allowed me to get into the subframe and disconnect the sensor.

heatshielding has seen better days so ill strip it all out and replace. should fix the hole in the boot while im at it but never done any fibreglassing before and i want it on the road shortly

scuffers - the wire was actually on the exhaust and is burnt through. might see if i can get a stiff but bendy guide type of doobray to keep it off the exhaust. a welding rod bent to shape might do it. ill be in touch for the sensor and might as well get a spacer as well.

[Scuffers]

I have used a bit of stiff wire inside the heat sleeve before to make it go/stay in place before...