________
Re: Trackday woes
With a fully charged battery and no alternator you would probably manage around 1.5 hours with no other drain being used i.e. battery starts, lights, wipers etc, before it fell to 10 volts and would not power the ECU.
tut
tut
Re: Trackday woes
With the lambda sensor disconnected or not in the exhaust stream I would expect the yellow MIL to light up.
The red charging light would not come on because of the lambda, but would come on if the alternator was not producing a charge. Unfortunately the charge warning light won't come on in the case of broken wires.
If you recharge the battery completely with a charger and it's in good condition I'm sure you'll make 100 miles in daylight - obviously leave the blower, stereo, lights, etc., all off.
Cheers,
Robin
The red charging light would not come on because of the lambda, but would come on if the alternator was not producing a charge. Unfortunately the charge warning light won't come on in the case of broken wires.
If you recharge the battery completely with a charger and it's in good condition I'm sure you'll make 100 miles in daylight - obviously leave the blower, stereo, lights, etc., all off.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
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Re: Trackday woes
It's certainly possible.
You might need a few cycles before the MIL comes on due to the lambda missing; of course the lambda was still electrically connected and breathing some exhaust gasses so maybe the ECU hasn't yet figured out that the readings don't quite make sense.
The gas from the lambda boss on S2 might well cook the alternator, or the alternator might just have failed anyway.
You can check that the charge warning light is working properly - when you turn on the ignition but do not start the engine. The charge warning light should be lit. Now start the engine. The light should go out. If it never lights then the control circuit is broken or the regulator pack has broken. If the light comes on but doesn't go off when the engine is running then the alternator is bust.
Cheers,
Robin
You might need a few cycles before the MIL comes on due to the lambda missing; of course the lambda was still electrically connected and breathing some exhaust gasses so maybe the ECU hasn't yet figured out that the readings don't quite make sense.
The gas from the lambda boss on S2 might well cook the alternator, or the alternator might just have failed anyway.
You can check that the charge warning light is working properly - when you turn on the ignition but do not start the engine. The charge warning light should be lit. Now start the engine. The light should go out. If it never lights then the control circuit is broken or the regulator pack has broken. If the light comes on but doesn't go off when the engine is running then the alternator is bust.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
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- thinfourth
- Posts: 3177
- Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 12:06 pm
- Location: Playing in the mud near aberdeen
Re: Trackday woes
It is wired up the right way round?
Landrover 90 = Muddy shed spec
Fiat panda = Couldn't care less spec
Landrover ?? = Muddy shrek spec
Unimog 404S = Very slow silly offroader spec
Kubota F1900 = Snowplough spec
Fiat panda = Couldn't care less spec
Landrover ?? = Muddy shrek spec
Unimog 404S = Very slow silly offroader spec
Kubota F1900 = Snowplough spec
Re: Trackday woes
If the lambda sensor starts giving weird readings the MIL light should come on, Strange it hasn't already, wonder if because it is reading way out the ECU is ignoring it and has gone into open loop. Off to check the rover manual.
Edit: To check your O2 sensor looks like you will need to beg, borrow or steel a code reader. You are looking for codes in the range P0131 to P0135 for the Pre Cat sensor itself. As I thought if the pre cat sensor fails the ECU goes open loop using a fixed O2 value but should still illuminate the MIL light.
If you have a volt meter you could try reading the voltages from the back of the plug, think the signal wires are green/yellow and GN which is green/something (can't remember what n stands for). This is from the engine side of the plug (sensor side all the wires will be white IIRC). You are looking for between it switching in the range of 0,7 and 1v.
Edit: To check your O2 sensor looks like you will need to beg, borrow or steel a code reader. You are looking for codes in the range P0131 to P0135 for the Pre Cat sensor itself. As I thought if the pre cat sensor fails the ECU goes open loop using a fixed O2 value but should still illuminate the MIL light.
If you have a volt meter you could try reading the voltages from the back of the plug, think the signal wires are green/yellow and GN which is green/something (can't remember what n stands for). This is from the engine side of the plug (sensor side all the wires will be white IIRC). You are looking for between it switching in the range of 0,7 and 1v.
Elise S2 260
Audi RS3
RRS HST
Triumph Trident 660
Triumph Speed Triple 1200RX
Audi RS3
RRS HST
Triumph Trident 660
Triumph Speed Triple 1200RX
Re: Trackday woes
Given that the MIL has not come on and the engine idles and runs properly I would strongly suspect the lambda sensor is OK now that it's reseated in the exhaust pipe.
Intermittent charging fault with the charge light coming on sounds like regulator pack or alternator drive belt really loose.
Cheers,
Robin
Intermittent charging fault with the charge light coming on sounds like regulator pack or alternator drive belt really loose.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Re: Trackday woes
There are generic sensors available from motor factors, etc.
Considering the hassle to remove downpipe, helicoil, etc., I might be inclined to buy the standard Rover/Lotus part.
Cheers,
Robin
Considering the hassle to remove downpipe, helicoil, etc., I might be inclined to buy the standard Rover/Lotus part.
Cheers,
Robin
I is in your loomz nibblin ur wirez
#bemoretut
#bemoretut
Re: Trackday woes
robin wrote:There are generic sensors available from motor factors, etc.
Considering the hassle to remove downpipe, helicoil, etc., I might be inclined to buy the standard Rover/Lotus part.
Cheers,
Robin
captian james t kirk-i am sorry i cant hear you, over the sound of how awesome i am-
1998 Audi Elige s1-1.8t 20v
05 Exige S2 - stage 2- Piperx VIS induction
1998 Audi Elige s1-1.8t 20v
05 Exige S2 - stage 2- Piperx VIS induction