S1 Starting Fueling problem

[Jacobite]

A few weeks back my Honda Elise started straight off the key as usual.- plip the alarm, turn the Ign,fuel pump primes and she fired straight up however she died and failed to restart.

Fuel level, battery,alarm all seeming to work ok, I tried a couple of times more over the next few weeks so I left her alone in the snow until last Tue when I went out to here expecting nothing and she started straight off the key as usuall ran her up to temp and till the fan kicked in to charge the battery and left her until the next day when I tried to start her ~ fuel pump not priming although shes turning over she doesnt start

I've reset the plip checked the inertia switch, re checked fuel,
today I bypassed the alarm with the *super secret technique*
Now imobelised kicks in dask light flashing, you plip the alarm the Fuel pump primes and there is now a smell of fuel too however no starter Reconnecting the white connector block restores the starter to operation but not the fuel pump ~ so not starting

Any thoughts guys ? I do have access to the fuel pump ~hatch behind seat thankfully

[Shug]

Modified your post slightly, even though you weren't as specific as you could be.

Check that when you're bypassing that everything is solid in that connector block. I've had the female pins come loose in the plastic before and cause an intermittent fault.

If the pump primes with the bypass, it's not the pump

[robin]

Do you have two fuel pumps? Some Honda installations do ...

Assuming just one fuel pump, Shug is probably right that you haven't implemented the not at all secret bypass properly. Here's a picture, click on it for higher res I hope ....



There's no point in being precious about it. For those people with S1/MEMS, there are two additional levels of immobilisation besides this one. Even for S1/Honda there is one more level, unless that's been bypassed already.

Your original symptom was not a lack of cranking; you've just broken that in trying to fix the non-start/stall. The other immobilisation level prevents cranking only, so I'll not go into details here.

Cheers,
Robin

[Jacobite]

Thanks Shug
It was all a tight fit had a bit of bother access wise to get the connector seperated the first time
Just one Fuel pump
and thats the one I've bypassed Robin ~
I'm presuming one loop covers the fuel and one the starting circuit ~ so thinking on working out which is which then soldering in a couple of leads to a manual switch, reconnecting the conector block to see it I can get it to fire that way

[robin]

Correct. One loop in each end should do. If you cannot make it start with just wires poked in the end, I would be looking carefully at the state of the connectors (are they showing signs of water ingress or overheating?). There is no magic here - if there is a reasonable path for current through your loops, the engine should crank and the fuel pump should run; there is no need for the switch and extra wiring.

Cheers,
Robin

[Jacobite]

Ok I had both the fuel pump priming and the starter cranking this morning with both imobelised circuits bypassed but it failed to start
Suspecting low battery voltage as the Omex isnt tollerant of a voltage drop below 10.6 V
Applied some Juice via a set of jump leads and cranking much faster but still not starting
re connected the conector block and back to square 1 turning over but fuel pump not priming
No sign of water ingress or heat damage via shorting or anything else

[r10crw]

Does the Omex allow you to monitor while cranking?
Also worth checking you are getting power to the injectors and coil packs. As regards the coil packs you should find three wires (I think as its been a while) one live usually 5v a ground then the control line. Using a suitable earth make sure you have the correct 5v. As regards injetcors you should have two wires just live and control, again just make sure this has the full 5v. Have you checked the engine earth? These cars are getting to the stage where these are becoming so corroded they no longer work and as you know earths can be funny things.
Craig.

[Jacobite]

Thanks Craig
might be beyond my electricical abilities ~give me a recipe any day ~ but iwill dig out my multi meter on my days off and have a look
but I do know that the engine earths are OK as I fitted ECU, Engine and Gearbox earths with a lead staright to the battery as per your recomendations when I first picked up the car

[Gourlay83]

Hamish,

Are you sure the pump is running when the engine is cranking ? I would be double checking, either by removing the hose to the injectors or the rail itself (2 x 12mm nuts).

If it's not, earth the fuel pump relay so the pump runs constantly. If it starts you know your ECU isn't triggering your fuel pump relay as it should.

If it's cranking fine (which i think it is ) check your getting fuel, Spark and then compression (Won't be compression, it's a Honda). Better to have a clear path what your looking for, rather than just checking random items.

Cheers
Alan