Air intake temp with Emerald, Advice neeeded

[r10crw]

So Ive finally got round to wiring in the emerald. Went for grouped injection and even got the IACV working. Loaded a base map set up the throttle pot etc etc and hey presto she started. Cold starting was horrendous but once above 40 degress she settled back and idled perfectly at 1050rpm. Throttle responce is instant with a lovely little backfire on overrun
So some of you from Frolics will remember I had a slight issue with power in the warmer weather (No comments Dodgy ) and when back in the UK it seemed better. I believe Robin had considered the intake tmp sensor but without the emerald we couldnt see the values. So when starting up today intake temp was a nice 11 degrees but once the coolant was at 50 the air temp was up to 40 and at 80 degrees running tep the air was reading 75 degrees.
My question is, has anyone monitored there intake temps at idle and are they this high? On my supercharged car my intake temps were around 80-100 and thats why the chargecooler was fitted which dropped them to around 50. Surely my senders faulty but if someone with an emerald can confirm or monitor theirs Id appreciate it,
Thanks Craig.

[paulW]

I had similar symptoms when I was running my Emerald.
Spoke to Shug\Robin about it...think conclusion was most likely down to heat soak. Sure they will be able to explain further.

However I can confirm I had exactly the same symptoms, reading silly high air temps at idle even in winter.

PS. Easy way to test, is to take it out for a spin and get some air through the system, on mine this was sufficient to get the temp readings down again.

[hiscot]

Craig on my last engine i have Titan T Bods fitted , I also found heat soak ( with dta ) so relocated the temp sender to the air box back plate , this solved it

[Mikie711]

Never seen my air temp that high even on a RR. But a lot will depend on where yours is located. Mine was between cyl 3&4 at the bottom edge of the TB's.

[robin]

The common place for these on the alloy manifold and at least some TBs I've seen is screwed into the runner for #4 cylinder, about 1 inch from the head

Relocate the intake sensor to the airbox and all will be well.

On Andy's mule, the intake temp reads stupid numbers too - his intake temperature correction map is zeroed out so this is ignored.

Cheers,
Robin

[r10crw]

Thanks for the input guys. Its gonna have to wait till the body etc back on before getting a run but interesting to hear opinions. The main reason for posting was because of my definite drop in power previously and the previous suspect was the sender. I thin relocating to the airbox could be a good option but surely this would have been a comon problem encountered with exige/ 340 engines. Gonna find out the resistance values for set temps and bench test the snder next.
Cheers Craig

[r10crw]

Just too late in posting Robin but zeroing out the table sounds like a nice idea to try for testing and then relocate.

[DDtB]

.... your face was a picture when you came back into the pits and we suggested you only had about 130 ponies!!

[Shug]

Mine, even on the backplate of the airbox on my TB setup, reads consistently high thanks to heat soak through the ally backplate. Have heard of a variety of options for isolating it a bit more, but in true Shug fashion, I've just left it...

[hiscot]

Shug i made the hole slightly larger , fitted a rubber gromet and bolted through this the sensor is isolated from heat soak

[Shug]

Shug i made the hole slightly larger , fitted a rubber gromet and bolted through this the sensor is isolated from heat soak

Indeed - not difficult, but one of those jobs I never seem to get round to doing...