Creaking sound from rear once car is been thrashed a bit

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tenkfeet
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Post by tenkfeet » Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:58 pm

Shug wrote:Yes. They should move freely (had you disconnected an end or something?) You should be able to rotate the link about 15-20 degrees on the balljoints, but have no side-side play.

They were seized. Exactly what happened to mine on MT with no warning. Think about replacing balljoints on them....
I just put a spanner on the rod and nut with both sides connected . I initially thought it was just tension /compression on the rod that was making it tight . It was your MT post that got me looking at them . Another job to add to the list .

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Tom
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Post by Tom » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:50 am

my odd creaking noise happens when in reverse, as the car moves off, pretty much regardless of what temp the car is. :shock: toe links?? :shock: :?
1995 Volvo 940SE Estate

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Rich H
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Post by Rich H » Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:33 pm

When you go into reverse the load on the links reverese from tention to compression, so could be related. Check that they move freely
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Tom
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Post by Tom » Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:46 pm

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:When you go into reverse the load on the links reverese from tention to compression, so could be related. Check that they move freely
sadly, i don't actually know what i'm looking for, or if i'll be able to get at them with the undertray on :shock: :oops: :?
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Rich H
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Post by Rich H » Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:41 pm

Under the back of the car there are 2 bars, one each side, linking the bottom of the chassis subframe to the bottom of the hub carrier. They are mostly exposed and about 3/4" in diameter. You should be able to twist them a little bit, quite stiff but smooth
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1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
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simon
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Post by simon » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:48 pm

I have a knocking noise sound like something is bouncing around in the boot (it isn't) and only happens at low speed. Mac reckoned it could be ball joints but I've no idea how to check. Anyone nearby fancy having a look that knows what to look for?

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Rich H
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Post by Rich H » Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:27 pm

Jack up one side, put a big lever under the wheel you want to check and lever upwards, it shouldn't clunk or knock, just compress the suspention. I know at least 2 of mine are knackered cos when I took the driveshaft out to change the seal they were both loose!
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress
1980 Porsche 924 Turbo - Funky Interior Spec
2004 Smart Roadster Coupe - Hers

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Tom
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Post by Tom » Tue Jun 27, 2006 9:21 am

RICHARDHUMBLE wrote:Under the back of the car there are 2 bars, one each side, linking the bottom of the chassis subframe to the bottom of the hub carrier. They are mostly exposed and about 3/4" in diameter. You should be able to twist them a little bit, quite stiff but smooth
cheers rich. will check (when i get the car back from murrays)...
1995 Volvo 940SE Estate

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MacK
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Post by MacK » Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:10 am

Tom wrote: cheers rich. will check (when i get the car back from murrays)...
Get Murrays to check when the car is in. :roll:




:wink:

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Tom
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Post by Tom » Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:21 am

MacK wrote:
Tom wrote: cheers rich. will check (when i get the car back from murrays)...
Get Murrays to check when the car is in. :roll:




:wink:
seriously?? won't that cost rather a lot??
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MacK
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Post by MacK » Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:32 am

I would have thought it should take about ten minutes! :shock:



So probs about £125.00 + v.a.t. :lol:

Edit; Ask them to check and give you a quote for changing them if they need done = free check.... :wink:

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Scottd
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Post by Scottd » Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:19 pm

MacK wrote:...Edit; Ask them to check and give you a quote for changing them if they need done = free check.... :wink:
But surely that wont tell you if they need done but how much Murrys charge to replace them, if u get my meaning ;)

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