Car running hot

[neil]

On yesterdays run the car seemed to be running a bit hot. When being worked hard it was sitting between 100-104C. I'm guessing this isn't normal? The fans are working as I heard them start up a couple of times when I was stationary. The cars a bog standard S2 Exige, bar the radiator which was recently replaced with a nice shiny Pro Alloy one. Any thoughts?

[Shug]

If it's stable, good chance it's a sensor - if the fans were bringing it back down. What happened when it wasn't being worked hard?

[neil]

It seemed to stay above 100 for quite a while after a workout. The lowest I saw it on the run was about 95 but that was rare. Last night on my run back up the road, it was rock solid at 85 though

[Shug]

That is weird... If it was a sensor, it'd be consistently hot. I'd have thought the Yota cooling system would be easily capable of managing temp when pressing on - certainly it's only when you're sitting at idle that the Rover system starts to creep up as the water pump isn't turning fast enough.

Outwith my knowledge now though, so I'll leave it to someone who knows better

[Gourlay83]

How long ago did you replace the Radiator.

Could be it just a simple air lock ?. Elises/Exiges aren't the easiest to bleed and you might have had a slight air lock which would cause problems with the flow to the radiator.

You might have even fixed the problem with your "workout".

A good indication would be if the level has droped slightly.

Best of Luck
Alan

[neil]

The radiator was replaced when the car was at Steve Walkers a couple of months ago. Yesterday was probably the hardest its been driven since then. I had a look at the level at the time and it was about 1/2" above the full marker - right on the join between the top and bottom of the reservoir. Just checked it again with the engine cold and its sitting on the Low marker.

[r10crw]

Cant think if the yota uses two temp sensors, one for the dash and one for the ecu. May be worth connecting an obd reader to compare the two? ie dash and ecu. If you know which sensor on the block I may have a spare one. Cheers Craig.

[neil]

Thanks, I'll take a look at that. Any idea where I'd get a workshop manual for it?

[dezzy]

Thanks, I'll take a look at that. Any idea where I'd get a workshop manual for it?

YHPM

[mwmackenzie]

Have you tried calling Ali at SLS?

[neil]

Well my OBD reader arrived today so that's kept me busy at work - I went for one of these. Seems to be quite a decent piece of kit which gives you all the real time ECU data, and will log it to a csv file. Even comes with software for PDAs and smartphones (not Symbian though )

The temperature on the dash seems to match that in the ECU, although I've not had it incredibly hot yet - will take it for a decent run and check again, although its possibly just a single temperature sensor.

I did find the following fault codes which would explain the MIL light being on briefly a few weeks ago:
P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P1301 Boost Calibration High

The OBDKEY gives the generic explanations which I've put above. Can someone translate these into English?

Have you tried calling Ali at SLS?

That's plan B...

[Gareth]

Have you tried calling Ali at SLS?

Are you Ali @ SLS in disguise with the continuing suggestions of "try Ali?"



P.S
Surely the changing of the rad is related.
I'm sure Craig will keep you right or maybe Robin can help.