S2 Camber shims anyone?

[cat]

I've been checking my geo settings and would like to make some camber changes mainly to balance the settings side/side but also get them closer to the standard spec (presently a bit too much for road use I think - FNS -1.17deg, FOS -0.52deg) . The popular trend seems to be removing shims so has anyone got spares they'd be willing to part with - for a reasonable sum of course

Thanks,
Dave

[roadboy]

I would remove a 1mm shim from the O/S front and put it in the N/S front. They should then be pretty even and fine for road use.

HTH

Dan

[cat]

Thanks Dan, I didn't think of that possibility. The reason I started checking my geo was to improve a tendancy to tram-line and feel slightly unsettled over undulating B-roads. The manual quotes approx 0.25deg change per mm of shim so your suggestion would give me approx -0.7/0.8deg per side, wouldn't this amount still give tram-lining etc I have </= -0.3deg in mind as a target or am I just being too picky?

[roadboy]

You won't notice any difference in tramlining between those two camber settings to be honest. I would be tempted to adjust the toe a bit if its really bad. What is the toe currently set to front and rear?

Dan

[cat]

In a word, CRAP...........my toe settings that is! No wonder the car was feeling nervous, and I'm the same after finding this out - there's toe out front & back!

FNS
21/29

FOS
21/25.5



RNS
24/28.5

ROS
22/28


Car 'mid laden' as per manual (2 x 75kgs + 1/2 tank fuel), measurements in mm with string set 50mm off each wheel centre, first value shows measurement at the front of each rim.

The set up was just to carry out a check, I'll have to visit B&Q now to get the bits to make a car mounted rig so that it'll be easier to make adjustments. I take it that the standard S2 Exige settings would be what to aim for (0 on front, 1.5mm IN/side on rear)?

D.

[robin]

Your measurements must be wrong -

Your combined front toe out would be +13.5mm??? Inside edges of tyres would wear very quickly I think.

Your rear toe out would be +4.5mm left, +6mm right. If you let go of the steering wheel on a flat piece of road, the car steers to the left fairly sharply I would guess?

Note that the front and rear wheel centres are not inline with one another, so setting wires parallel to the wheel centres will give you reference lines that toe in, thus making the wheels appear to toe out.

You need to make sure your measurement rig is square (both lines same length, both lines mounted at same distance from one another front and rear) and that the car is positioned squarely within the rig.

One way to do this is to mark your cross beam (or poles or whatever you're using) with the same distance (should be just wider than rear track). Then fit poles front and rear and tension the lines; make sure lines are still on the marks (i.e. front and rear line ends are still at the same distance apart, so lines must be parallel). Now shuffle the front pole left right until the distance from line to front wheel centres is the same each side of the car. Repeat with rear pole. This will knock the fronts out of whack, so repeat at front, etc., until the distances from both front wheel centres to line is the same side to side and the distances from both rear wheel centres to line is the same side to side.

If you record these wheel centre to line values, you can set the whole thing up much more quickly next time (assuming you're using the same pole markings).

You need to be able to measure to at least 0.25 mm to stand a chance of getting useful readings. If you persuade a vernier caliper to measure the distance from line to wheel using the bore-depth measuring part, you're halfway there - the rest is then technique.

Cheers,
Robin

[cat]

Dohh!! Of course, thanks for that Robin. I was trying to use my axle stands and string to do a quick check but should have got the poles and made a rig from the start . I guess the axle stand method would work but needs to be set up correctly which I clearly didn't do - will use the method as you describle from now on.

[robin]

I should point out that is theoretical method - you can no doubt improve on it with actual experience - apart from a few rough and ready emergency rigs I have never attempted to set the geo using the string & ruler approach ... I just get it done at CLCM

Cheers,
Robin