kerryxeg wrote:If its natural stone, they are usually in varying thicknesses and need to be on cement, to get it level but also to avoid cracking. Usually natural stone is pointed at the joints for a better finish but there are other methods. To get decent pointing you have to leave the correct gap.
For man made slabs of even thickness, it could be on sand or cement. If there is any sand in use it needs to be whacked (compacted) or you will endup with iceberg slabs silting in all directions and should have some form of edging.
Cement always takes longer but will give the best results and last longer if done correctly. If your pointing with brushed sand, its worth getting the proper kiln dried sand. This needs to be brushed over the stones then you run the whacker over the stones (obviously not for use on slabs) to get the sand to flow and lock the stones in place. You can also then put a resin over the whole lot which needs to be done immediately after. The resin soaks into the sand locks it in place for ever and also stops moss etc. I would not use sand between slabs, there is a high risk of it washing away over time, either flush is straight edged or point with cement.
I've done plenty projects and fixed a few cock-ups, but my neighbour is a proper landscaper and does it correctly (but he's in Aberdeen).
Kerry
As Old Riven is a reconstituted product it should be uniform thickness I'd have expected? (although I haven't used it personally to confirm). You could contact your local Bradstone rep if the guy argues over laying techniques- he should be happy to tell you their recommendations for laying to avoid debate, although I wouldn't mention initially the reason for your enquiry is a dispute perhaps. (Reps are generally busy/concentrating on selling and won't want dragged into disputes over small jobs. Usually know their stuff though and it's not a difficult question!)
Also some advice on http://www.bradstone.com/garden/advice/ ... aving.aspx which I assume you've checked already...
The one advantage of sand pointing/bedding is that it does drain surface water far more readily (although as Kerry says it does tend to wash away over time). It really only works well on a level, compacted substrate, and with a little maintenance every so often,but is not necessarily a bad thing.
(It is worth bearing in mind that part of the problem with the flooding we're seeing on the news is our interference with natural absorption features....)
PITA Craig- hope you get it sorted without too much stress. Don't back down if you're not happy, and don't pay! If he has to re-lay he will no-doubt be rather unhappy, but it's his mistake at the end of the day. Ain't rocket science laying a level patio, and if it looks bad now you can bet it'll look worse in a couple of years....
and i want it done right
