Engine Options for the Shed...

Scotty C · Post by **Scotty C** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:02 pm

I might have an engine for sale soon.

I bought a spare and going to be doing the head on it as it already has a cr gearbox attached.

Not sure the milage on it?

robin · Post by **robin** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:22 pm

The head is already from Sabre heads, though you could upgrade the cams - I think Rog has some cams he prefers to use with KR1 that give you a bit of a boost/make the car feel a little bit quicker than it is. I assume you'll send the head down to him to have the valves sorted?

No way should you remove the engine - just replace the damaged piston (perhaps as a set of new pistons and rods?). OE will be fine for what you use the car for.

You should probably get it on a dyno with a wide band lambda hooked up to check the top end fuelling - you might need to boost fuel pressure a tad to make sure it's not lean at full throttle at the red line.

Cheers,
Robin

les · Post by **les** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:54 pm

Rog recommends Newman Phase 2's

Dan22h · Post by **Dan22h** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:28 pm

I have a DVA fettled engine that I'm about to sell having just bought an mg zr 160 for a swap. It has piper 270 cams, Verniers, port matched vvc inlet, 160 throttle body, magnecor leads etc. Still in car to see it working etc

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:15 pm

I've two complete Hondas for sale very very cheap. Complete with loads of bits, I guess 4k and you have absolutely everything you need to do the work yourself? Just spanners and some wires, expensive compared to a head but it's a Honda. Plus when something breaks u know how to sort it.

RDH · Post by **RDH** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:21 pm

r10crw wrote:.... you need to do the work yourself? ..... Plus when something breaks u know how to sort it.

This is Dave we are talking about, he can't even put brake pads in the right way round..

Sanjøy · Post by **Sanjøy** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:11 am

r10crw wrote:I've two complete Hondas for sale very very cheap. Complete with loads of bits, I guess 4k and you have absolutely everything you need to do the work yourself? Just spanners and some wires, expensive compared to a head but it's a Honda. Plus when something breaks u know how to sort it.

End of thread.

robin · Post by **robin** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:33 am

As woody has the 160 pistons available it's not clear to me why you wouldn't just get those fitted, assuming Craig agrees that fitting four new (well, second hand) pistons/rods is cost effective repair.

Unless you're rolling in money, of course, or fancy a DIY Honda conversion ....

Cheers,
Robin

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:48 pm

Id give you or anyone else for that matter the honda for 1K, loom/gearbox/honda shafts/ecu etc.
I have a complete shifter mechanism and some engine mounts. All you need to do is wiring, plumbing and some engine mount parts. Using the original honda manifold is possible so you just need a small mating pipe from here to the existing cat. I guess if you cut corners you could have it running for less than 3K all in....

Post by **pete** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:03 pm

r10crw wrote:Id give you or anyone else for that matter the honda for 1K, loom/gearbox/honda shafts/ecu etc.
I have a complete shifter mechanism and some engine mounts. All you need to do is wiring, plumbing and some engine mount parts. Using the original honda manifold is possible so you just need a small mating pipe from here to the existing cat. I guess if you cut corners you could have it running for less than 3K all in....

Oh god. Really.

<MUST RESIST>

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:49 pm

For a honda, DIY engine mounts will cost less than £100. I have two, the ones for the top of the gearbox and engine so they effectively hold the drivetrain up. Then you need one or two made which stop the rotation.
It means you have to design and fab or pay someone. The problem is that everytime you rely on someone else the cost spirals.

Gear linkage you need something like below, this is using existing cables from the S1. Maybe cost 50 to fabricate? Again Ihave whats needed sitting spare so anyone is welcome to have it copied.

You need an FPR, cheap on ebay.
Clutch is just pipe fittings, ie old clutch pipe goes direct to honda slave. Dont remember what sizes and seem to remember an imperial to metric conversion but no biggie.
Drive shafts, not cheap but just get hold of Steve on seloc, he has a friend which can source ( at least he did...) which use honda inners and existing elise outers. These are expensive though, maybe £750? Want to be really cheap you could sleeve the shafts and weld.
Exhaust system can be done as I said above. This can be fabricated by an exhaust builder for less than 250 easy. Alternatively borrow my Tig and DIY?
Coolant system, most of the parts you need can be scavenged from the exisiting K series but still not a lot of money.
Wiring, Alan has documented this better than anybody and has all wiring available. All you need are relays.]
K100 ecu. Basically just your Honda ecu sent away and unlocked. Think this is £300?
Anything that scares you then just go with one of the kit parts. For instance several people will sell engine mounts/coolant parts.gear linkage etc.

Remember that with the honda you are at the limits of what the rest of the car is good for. The big costs are from the next step, ie SC. Then you need injectors, fuel pump, proper exhaust etc etc.

The reason it costs £10k plus is the work involved and some development costs. If you DIY you can save big time but it takes time so better if you can do without the car for a while. Also its a big help if you have a decent workshop.
Craig.

Post by **Shug** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:03 am

Lolling hard at the suggestions of self-installing a Honda for cheapness. Seriously, have you met Dave? He will not be picking up a spanner - just not going to happen.

r10crw · Post by **r10crw** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:20 am

I agree (sorry Dave) but was thinking more of a group spanners session, just bit by bit? It hasn't been on the road for a while anyway so does it matter how long it takes? Of course depends if he has a garage to leave it at and work?

Post by **Shug** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:26 am

Nah, tis in Murrays, he wants a "Do this" option that he can take to them and hand over cash, then receive car back in a couple of weeks. Part of this massive delay has been him trying to come up with excellent spannering plans, wheezes and dodges.

Needs to pay money and be done with it - Robin's suggestion gets my vote TBH - whack in the 160 Pistons that Woody has sitting doing nothing, potentially whack some hotter cams in it, get back and use. Spending thousands on shoehorning a Honda in (and introducing all sorts of other reliability issues with home made wiring and potentially bodged driveshafts) is mental in this situation, IMO.

DDtB · Post by **DDtB** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:11 pm

BIG NEWS!!!!!!

Car failed it's MOT this week which made me very happy indeed.

MOT = it has an engine in it again!!!!

Finish line in sight.... I'm nearly an Elise owner again...

Scottish Elises