Scottish Elises

http://www.enjoydriving.co.uk/sml_0374.jpg http://www.enjoydriving.co.uk/sml_0373.jpg http://www.enjoydriving.co.uk/sml_0372.jpg Looking for sell the S1. :cry: I bought the car from Ali Crosier and Stu Pollock after SE Campangza in 2008. Since then, I've replaced the engine with a standard low mile...

nice rich cold idle that goes to 14.5 when warm...guess that is that fixed then.

suppose it helps if hose is actually attached to inlet plenum

Ok, since fixing manifold gasket and fitting a new working wideband (plx this time :mrgreen: ) I am running lean at idle. :cry: rest of rev range is ok, but at idle it starts off ok and then gradually gets leaner and leaner, until it starts to sound rough. any ideas? I am guessing MAF sensor? which ...

Couldn't get the LC-1 woking with any car, so ordered the PLX.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0634652957

Hopefully be able to see if it is actually running rich or if the cat is shagged, or something else entirely.

Actually it has 2 analogue outs? one can simulate narrow band and other can connect to my data logger?

£120 including yet another sensor. tempted.

Not saying anything positive about the LC-1 currently, as it's not working. :D PLX from that site seems a good bit cheaper than eBay and the like. http://www.plxdevices.co.uk/product_info.php?name=SM-AFR_GEN2_with_Sensor_and_with_Sensor_Harness_Plug_and_Play_kit&model=SMAFRG2&prod=PLX-0082&osCsid=ae...

Yup, heard they aren't the most reliable. I've had this one for 5 years and not had any bother with it until now, worked fine in the Caterham which has a tiny motorbike battery. PLX seem very expensive in comparison and not self-calibrating, so need to get calibrated sensor from plx? Are these "gene...

Nope, it is supposed to heat up in 20-30 seconds, but not even warmed up after 5 mins. However, it was heating up much quicker using jump leads as oppose to the thin wire I was using previously. Two ideas, the +ve wire to LC-1 might be damaged Also I seem to remember some issue with the system groun...

So any idea on best place to buy a new narrowband sensor?

I did find a switched live near the ecu, blue connector - green and purple wire. so was taking the +ve from there.

Now I've got it connected directly to the battery with a jump lead, as a temporary measure, until I find a good reliable switched live.

Emissions failed, high CO. Knew I had a leak in the exhaust manifold gasket, so fixed that. After that, lots of soot coming out of exhaust, so decided to swap out the narrowband with the wideband....destroying the narrowband in the process. Since that I've had a rough idle....with no lambda sensor i...

Engine Off 1. Battery Terminals 13.36V 2. Starter and Egnine Block 13.36V 3. Engine block and -ve battery 0.01mV Warm Idle 1. 14.12V 2. 14.12V 3. 3.5mV 3,000 rpm (couldn't get a steady 2,000 rpm) 1. 14.1V 2. 14.12V 3. 4.1mV 4. Battery -ve and Chassis 0mV 5. Battery -ve and Engine Block 3.7mV (doh!! ...

Ended up swapping the engine out as I couldn't get the the bottom of the oil into water leak. Replaced the head gasket, etc, but suffered a major overheat in France and ended up pushing it onto the train at the channel tunnel. so just running a standard engine on a standard ecu now. Emerald was work...

Hey Stu,

Who did I buy the car from? You and Ali

Yup, someone has already run a thin blue wire from the battery to engine block, and not showing any voltage drop between the two.